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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  {MT-3) 


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1.0 


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2.5 
2.2 


1.8 


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Hiotogr&pbi 

Sdences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4S03 


l^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 
D 

n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 

Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagde 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pellicul6e 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


rrir  Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 


# 


D 
D 

n 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ciu  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relid  avec  d'autres  documents 


□    Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serree  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 


D 


Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoui^ss 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  M  filmdes. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  unrj 
modification  dans  la  m6thode  normals  de  filmarje 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


□    Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

□    Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

□    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  pellicul^es 


0 


Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  ddcolordes,  tachetdes  ou  piqu^es 


I      I    Pages  detached/ 


0 


Pages  d6tach6es 


ShowthrDugh/ 
Transparence 


□    Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  in^gale  de  {'impression 

□    Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementalre 

□    Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


D 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmies  d  nouveau  de  facon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


Th( 
to 


Th 
po 
of 
fill 


Or 
be 
th( 
sic 

oti 
fin 
sic 
or 


Th 
sh 
Til 

wl 

M 
dil 
en 
be 
rit 
rei 


D 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl6mentaires. 


This  item  fs  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  documont  est  film*  au  taux  de  r6duction  indiqu*  ci-dessous. 

10X  WX  18X  22X 


y 


12X 


16X 


20X 


26X 


SOX 


24X 


28X 


32X 


Th«  copy  filmed  her*  ha*  b««n  raproducad  thanks 
to  tha  ganarosity  of: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 


L'axamplaira  film*  fut  raproduit  grica  A  la 
g^niroaiti  da: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 


Tha  imagas  appearing  hara  ara  tha  bast  quality 
possibia  considaring  tha  condition  and  legibility 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  kaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  spacifications. 


Las  imagas  suivantas  ont  4t6  raproduitas  avac  la 
plus  grand  soin,  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattat*  da  l'axamplaira  film*,  at  an 
conformity  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmaga. 


Original  copias  in  printad  papar  covars  ara  filmad 
beginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printad  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — »>  (meaning   "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END  "), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimie  sont  filmis  en  commenpant 
par  la  premier  plat  at  an  terminant  soit  par  la 
darnlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  la  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  nutres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmAs  en  commengant  par  la 
pramiAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  darniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ^-  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  churts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmis  A  des  taux  de  rMuction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  il  est  film*  A  psrtir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nicessaire.  Las  diagrammas  suivants 
illustrant  la  m6thode. 


1 

2 

3 

32X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

GEOGRAPHICAL   DESCRIPTION 


OF   THE 


STATE  OF  TEXAS;. 


ALSO,    OF   THAT   PART   OF    THE. 


WEST  COAST  OF  NORTH  AMERICA, 


WHICH    INCLUDES 


OREGON, 


AND 


UPPER  CALIFOENIA. 


WITH   MAPS. 


PHILADELPHIA: 
THOMAS,  COWPERTHWAIT  dt  CO. 

1846. 


r- 


Entered,  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1846,  by 

THOMAS,  COWPERTHWAIT  &  CO. 

in  the  clerk's  office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Eastern  District 

of  Pennsylvania. 


(2) 


^1 


DESCKIPTION 


or    THE 


STATE  OF  TEXAS. 


'i 

i 


by 


ricl 


Texas  was  annexed  by  the  universal  desire  and  con- 
sent of  her  people  and  Legislature,  as  well  as  by  the 
consent  of  tlic  Congress  of  the  United  States,  in  Decem- 
ber 1 845,  as  the  twenty -eighth  State  of  the  American 
confederacy.  From  the  year  1836  to  the  period  of  an- 
nexation, it  formed  the  independent  Republic  of  Texas. 
Previous  to  that  date,  it  was  connected  with  CohahuilOf 
and  with  it  comprised  one  of  the  States  of  Mexico. 

The  state  extends  from  26°  to  42°  north  latitude,  and 
from  longitude  17°  20'  to  28°  50'  west  of  Washington 
city.  Its  boundaries,  as  defined  by  an  Act  of  the  Texan 
Congress,  are  as  follows :  **  Beginning  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Sabine  River,  and  running  west  along  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  three  leagues  from  land,  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Rio  Grande ;  thence  up  the  principal  channel  of  said 
river  to  its  source ;  thence  due  north  to  the  42°  of  north 
latitude ;  thence  along  the  boundary  line  as  defined  in 
the  treaty  between  the  United  States  and  Spain,  in  tlic 
year  1619,  to  the  place  of  beginning.  The  area  within 
the  above  boundaries  is  estimated  at  324,018  square 
miles,  or  207,371,520  acres.  From  the  foregoing  it  will 
be  seen  that  Texas  is  a  large  and  comprehensive  state, 
being  seven  times  the  area  of  Pennsylvania,  and  more 
than  two  and  a  half  times  larger  than  Great  Britain  and 
Ireland.  A  line  drawn  from  the  mouth  of  the  Rio 
Grande  or  Rio  del  Norte,  io  a  direction  N.  W.  by  N.  to 

H  7  0  «  0  "" 


I 


4  DKSCRIPIION    OF    THE 

the  north-west  corner  of  the  state,  on  the  42"  of  north 
latitude,  would  measure  1300  miles  nearly  ;  a  direct  line 
from  Galveston  to  Santa  Fe,  820  miles  ;  and  an  east  and 
west  line,  on  the  32d  parallel  of  latitude,  from  tlie  eastern 
boundary  of  the  state  to  the  Rio  Grande,  would  be  650 
miles  in  length. 

Texas  is  nearly  all  comprised  in  the  southern  part  of 
that  vast  interior  plain  of  Nortli  America  which  extends 
from  the  Arctic  Ocean  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Though 
comparatively  a  dry  country,  it  is  well  supplied  by  rivers  : 
commencing  on  the  east  by  the  Sabine,  that  stream  is 
followed  in  sequence  by  the  Trinity,  Brazos,  Colorado, 
Guadalupe,  San  Antonio,  Nueces,  and  Rio  Grande  del 
Norte.  The  sea-coast,  into  which  these  rivers  are  dis- 
charged in  a  distance  of  about  400  miles,  is  indented  by 
Sabine  Lake  or  Bay,  Matagorda,  Espiritu  Santo,  and 
numerous  lesser  bays  and  inlets,  besides  the  mouths  of 
the  rivers,  yet  does  not  present  a  single  haven  admitting 
vessels  of  large  draught.  Galveston  bar  has  12  feet  of 
water,  San  Luis  Inlet  10  feet,  and  the  entrance  to  Ma- 
tagorda Bay  11  feet:  south  of  the  latter,  the  entrances 
of  the  rasses  or  inlets  are  seldom  over  4  feet. 

The  Sabine  River  is  navigable  for  small  steamboats 
about  100  miles.  The  Neches,  the  chief  tributary  of  the 
Sabine,  80  miles ;  the  Trinidad  150  miles,  and  the  Bra- 
20S  250  miles.  The  Colorado  is  obstructed  by  a  raft  10 
miles  above  its  mouth,  but  measures  are  in  progress  for 
removing  this,  when  it  is  anticipated  that  it  will  be 
navigable  for  small  steamboats  to  Austin,  more  than 
200  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The  Guadalupe, 
San  Antonio,  and  Nueces  rivers,  are  navigable  for  short 
distances  only.  The  Rio  Grande,  Rio  del  Norte  or  Rio 
Bravo,  (for  it  is  known  by  all  these  different  names,)  has 
a  course  of  not  less  than  1800  miles ;  yet  it  is  of  but  little 
importance  as  a  navigable  channel,  being  generally  so 
shallow,  except  within  200  miles  of  its  mouth,  that  In- 
dian  canoes  can  hardly  float  in  it,  and  occasionally, 
during  the  heat  of  summer,  it  is,  in  places,  entirely  dry 
and  without  water. 


\ 


^4 


STATE    OF    TEXAS. 


orth 
line 
and 
tern 
650 


The  general  aspect  of  Texas  is  that  of  a  \w  \  inclined 
plane,  gradually  sloping  from  the  mountains  on  the  west, 
south-eastward  to  the  sea,  and  intersected  by  numerous 
rivers,  nearly  all  having  a  south-easterly  direction.  It 
is  divided  into  three  separate  regions  :  the  first  extends 
along  the  coast  inland,  from  70  to  J  00  miles  in  width. 
The  soil  of  this  region  is  chiefly  a  rich  alluvium,  with 
scarcely  a  stone,  yet  singularly  free  from  stagnant 
swamps.  Broad  woodlands  fringe  the  banks  of  the 
rivers,  between  which  are  extensive  and  rich  pasture 
lands.  The  second  division,  the  rolling  prairie  region, 
extends  for  150  or  200  miles  farther  inland,  its  wide, 
grassy  tracts  alternating  with  others  that  are  thickly 
timbered.  These  last  are  especially  prevalent  in  the 
east,  though  the  bottoms  and  river  valleys  through- 
out the  whole  region  are  well  wooded.  Limestone 
and  sandstone  form  the  common  substrata  of  this 
region ;  the  upper  soil  consists  of  a  rich  friable  loam, 
mixed  to  some  extent  with  sand.  The  third,  or  moun- 
tain region,  situated  in  the  west  and  north-west,  forming 
the  eastern  division  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  range,  is  but 
little  known :  many  portions  of  it  consist  of  an  elevated 
table-land,  where  the  prairies  not  unfrequently  resemble 
the  vast  steppes  of  Asia. 

The  southern  part  of  Texas,  lying  between  the  Nueces 
River  and  the  Rio  Grande,  is  different  in  character  from 
the  other  parts  of  the  country,  being  usually  considered 
as  a  desert.  Fresh  water  and  grass  are  scarce,  yet  the 
mustang  or  wild  horse  is  frequently  met  with.  The 
vegetation  consists  chiefly  of  tlie  musquit-bush  matted 
with  vines,  which  grows  six  or  seven  feet  high,  and  is 
difficult  to  penetrate.  The  Mexicans  call  this  species 
of  thicket  happoral ;  it  covers  the  whole  region  in  ques- 
tion, and  is  interspersed  with  small  salt  lakes  and  ponds. 

In  the  month  of  March  1846,  the  American  army, 
commanded  by  General  Taylor,  marched  from  Corpus 
Christi  across  this  desert  to  the  Rio  Grande  opposite  to 
Matamoras.  The  march  occupied  17  days,  being 
lengthened  nearly  one  half  by  the  necessity  of  diverging 
1* 


( 


6 


DESCRIPTION    or    THE 


\i 


1 
i 

I 
i 

t; 


I 


from  a  direct  line  in  order  to  reach  the  various  springrg 
of  li^esh  water  scattered  along  the  track.  In  the  lower 
part  of  their  courses,  the  Nueces  and  Rio  Grande  are 
about  120  miles  apart. 

The  Texan  year  consists  of  a  wet  and  a  dry  season. 

The    former  lasts   from    December   to   March,  during 

which  N.  and  N.  E,  winds  are  most  prevalent ;  the  latter, 

from  March  to  the  end  of  November,  during  which  the 

fi    winds  vary  from  the  S.  E.  round  to  S.  W.,  may  be  sub- 

C'    divided  into  spring,  summer,  and  winter.     From  April 

c<    to  September,  the  thermometer,  in  different  parts  of  the 

"^    country,  has  been  found  at  a  general  average  to  range 

^    from  63°  to  100°.     The  warm  season  is,  however,  tem- 

^    pered  by  continual  and  strong  breezes,  which  commence 

^'    soon  after  sunrise,  and  continue  till  about  3  or  4  o'clock 

S^    P.  M.,  and  the  nights   throughout   the   year  are   cool. 

^^    From  March  to  October  little  rain  falls,  though  thunder 

^"    storms  frequently  occur.     During  the  rest  of  the  year 

VC)    ^^et  weather  is  prevalent ;  the  rivers  swell  and  inundate 

^*    the  country,  and  the  roads  are  generally  rendered  for  a 

^H    time  impassable.    Snow  is  seldom  seen  in  winter  except 

®^    on  the  mountains.     The  climate  is  mild  and  agreeable, 

and  on  the  whole  is  admitted  to  be  more  salubrious  than 

J"*    that  of  Louisiana,  or  the  adjacent  parts  of  Mexico. 

^*'       The  surface  of  Texas  is  in  most  parts  covered  with 

^°?   luxuriant  native  grasses,  affording  excellent  pasturage ; 

"^^  it   has   also  an  ample  supply  of  timber.     Live  oak  is 

^^^  abundant,  white,  black,  and  post  oak,  ash, elm,  hickory, 

J^^  musquite,  walnut,  sycamore  hois  d'arc,  so  called  from 

~^0  the  Indians  using  it  to  make  their  bows,  cypress,  &,c., 

San  aje   among   the  common   trees,  and    the  mountainous 

dist  parts  in  the  north-west  abound  with  pine  and  cedar  of 

^^*  fine   quality.     Among   the   natural   curiosities   of  the 

f-  CO  country,  is  the  "  Cross  Timbers,"  a  continuous  series  of 

inipj  forests,  varying  in  breadth  from  5  to  10  miles,  and  ex- 

shal,  tending  in  a  direct  line  from  the  sources  of  the  Trinity, 

dian  northward  to  the  Arkansas  river.     It  appears  at  a  dis- 

durij  tance  like  an  immense  wall  of  wood ;  and  from  the  west, 

and   such  is  its  linear  regularity,  that  it  looks  as  if  it  were 


STATE    OF    TEXAS. 


)rings 

lower 

|de  are 

season. 

[during 
latter, 

iich  the 
5  sub- 
April 
of  the 
to  range 

er,  tem- 

mmence 
o'clock 
lire   cool. 

thunder 

the  year 
inundate 
red  for  a 
or  except 
Lgrceable, 
ious  than 
jxico. 
ered  with 
asturage ; 
ve  oak  is 
,  hickory, 
lied  from 
>res3,  &.C., 
untainous 
I  cedar  of 
BS   of  the 
\  series  of 
s,  and  ex- 
e  Trinity, 
3  at  a  dis. 
1  the  west, 
if  it  were 


planted  by  art.     It   forms  the  great   boundary  of  the 
western  prairies. 

Texas  is  amply  supplied  with  fruits  and  garden  pro- 
ducts. The  clinjateot'the  lowlands  is  too  warm  for  the 
apple,  but  almost  every  other  fruit  of  temperate  climes 
comes  to  perfection.  Peaches,  melons,  tigs,  oranges, 
lemons,  pine-apples,  dates,  olives,  &c.,  may  be  grown  in 
different  localities.  Grapes  are  abundant,  and  very  tol- 
eriible  wine  has  been  made  from  some  kinds;  vanilla, 
indigo,  sarsaparilla,  and  a  great  variety  of  dyeing  and 
medicinal  shrubs  and  plants  are  indigenous,  and  on  all 
the  river  bottoms  is  an  undergrowth  of  cane,  so  thick 
as  to  be  almost  impervious.  Along  the  water-courses 
also  and  near  the  sea,  the  larger  trees  are  sometimes 
wreathed  with  Spanish  moss,  which  serves  both  for  fod- 
der, and  for  the  manufacture  of  cheap  bedding,  &.c. 
The  flora  of  Texas  is  particularly  rich  and  copious. 

The  grains  chiefly  cultivated  are  corn  and  wheat:  the 
average  crop  of  the  former  on  good  ground,  is  from  50 
to  60  bushels  per  acre :  two  crops  may  be  gathered  in 
the  year,  the  first  being  usually  planted  in  February, 
and  the  second  late  in  June.  Wheat  has  been  cut  in 
May,  and  the  same  land  has  yielded  a  good  crop  of  corn 
in  October ;  rye,  barley,  oats,  &c.,  are  suited  for  the  | 
upper  country,  and  rice  near  the  river  estuaries,  but 
small  quantities  only  of  these  grains  have  hitherto  been 
raised. 

The  modes  of  husbandry  in  Texas  are  of  the  most 
simple  description.  The  first  object  of  the  farmer  after 
building  a  small  and  temporary  log-cabin,  is  to  enclose 
a  suflicient  space  of  the  open  level  adjoining,  by  the 
erection  of  a  rail  fence ;  he  then  proceeds  to  break  up 
the  land  with  a  light  plough,  which  is  usually  drawn  by 
oxen.  The  Texan  farmers  generally  content  themselves 
with  one  ploughing  previously  to  planting ;  manuring 
is  seldom  resorted  to ;  the  seed-time  for  some  cotton  and 
most  other  crops  is  in  February  and  March :  a  few  hoe- 
ings  to  destroy  weeds,  to  thin  and  earth  up  the  youn; 


d 


DESCRIPTION   OF   THE 


plants,  is  ull  that  is  required  on  the  part  of  the  husband- 
man to  bring  them  to  perfection. 

Cotton  is  the  great  agricultural  staple  of  the  state, 
and  it  is  aflirined  to  be  decidedly  ssuperior,  as  a  cotton 
growing  country,  to  tlie  best  districts  in  ether  parts  of 
the  Union.  Some  cotton  growing  lands,  yield  it  is  said 
from  one  and  a  half  to  two  bales  of  clean  cotton  per 
acre.  Its  cultivation  hitherto  has  been  principally  on 
the  Brazos  and  Colorado,  Red  and  Trinity  rivers,  and 
Caney  creek ;  but  it  is  steadily  on  the  advance.  Cotton 
planting  begins  in  February,  and  picking  in  June.  The 
sugar-cane  is  also  said  to  attain  to  greater  perfection 
than  on  the  Mississippi,  and  an  average  of  3,000  pounds 
to  the  acre  has  in  some  cases  been  attained.  Tobacco, 
the  mulberry  tree,  and  potatoes,  both  common  and 
sweet,  grow  well. 


Catching  wild  horses  on  the  prairies  of  Texas. 

The  raising  of  live  stock  is  the  principal  and  favourite 
occupation  of  the  Texans,  and  many  of  the  prairies  are 
covered  with  a  valuable  breed  of  oxen,  which  thrive  well 
with  but  little  attention.  Profitable  trade  in  cattle  is 
opened  with  New  Orleans ;  and  hides,  horns,  and  tallow, 
are  beginning  to  be  exported  to  Europe.     The  rearing 


r\^»' 


FTATK    OF    TKXAS. 


)and. 

itatc, 
lotion 
Its  ol' 

said 
[1  per 
by  on 
K  and 
fotton 

The 
tction 
>unds 
ucco, 

and 


of  horses  and  mules  is  also  extcnrfively  pursued  ;  sheep 
tlirive  on  the  uopcr  lands,  but  require  Iblding;  hogs  are 
plentiful,  and  large  quantities  of  pork  are  raised.  Herds 
of  buffaloes  and  wild  horses  wander  over  the  prairies. 
These  animals  have  been  considerably  reduced  in  num- 
ber since  the  first  settlement  of  the  country,  but  are  still 
numerous.  The  wild  horses  are  often  caught  with  a 
leathern  rope  or  cord,  having  a  running  noose  on  one 
end,  and  in  a  manner  similar  to  the  mode  in  which  wild 
cattle  are  taken  on  the  pampas  of  South  America.  The 
Texan  horses,  or  mustangs,  on  being  properly  broken, 
generally  become  useful  animals. 


raiillior. 

Deer  are  every  where  abundant  in  Texas;  beare, 
cougars,  panthers,  peccaries,  wolves,  foxes,  raccoons, 
dec,  are  common,  and  many  of  the  planters  keep  packs 
of  large  and  powerful  dogs  to  prevent  the  destruction 
of  their  herds  and  flocks.  Most  of  the  birds  known  in 
the  other  parts  of  the  United  States  arc  common  to 
'I'exas,  and  the  bays,  &-c.,  abound  in  fish  of  excellent 
quality,  beds  of  fine  oysters,  and  other  testacea.  Alli- 
gators are  sometimes  met  with  in  the  rivers,  particularly 
Ked  River  and  its  tributaries ;  turtles,  &c.,  in  the  estu- 
aries. I'here  are  several  kinds  of  venomous  serpents, 
and,  as  in  all  other  warm  countries,  musquitoes  and 
other  insect  annoyances  are  common. 

In  many  parts  of  the  rolling  prairie  region,  coal  of  a 


10 


DESCRIPTION   OF   THE 


i; 


superior  quality  and  iron  ore  have  been  found,  and  it 
has  been  supposed,  that  beds  of  these  valuable  minerals 
extend  over  a  great  part  of  the  country.  Silver  mines 
were  wrought  towards  Santa  Fe  in  the  north-west,  till 
the  works  were  destroyed  by  the  Comanches.  Nitre 
abounds  in  the  east,  salt  is  obtained  from  numerous 
lakes  and  springs,  and  bitumen  in  several  places; 
granite,  limestone,  gypsum,  slate,  «fcc.,  are  abundant, 
except  in  the  low  alluvial  region. 

Previous  to  the  year  1G90,  Texas  formed  merely  a 
nominal  province  of  the  vice-royalty  of  Mexico  or  New 
Spain,  and  was  inhabited  wholly  by  predatory  Indian 
tribes ;  but  in  that  year  the  Spaniards,  having  driven 
out  a  colony  of  French,  who  had  established  themselves 
at  Matagorda  Bay,  made  their  first  permanent  settle- 
ment at  San  Francisco,  in  the  vicinity.  A  few  other 
small  settlements  were  formed,  from  time  to  time,  but 
little  or  no  attention  seems  to  have  been  paid  by  the 
vice-regal  government  to  such  distant  and  profitless  es- 
tablishments. Until  the  year  1821,  the  only  places  oc- 
cupied by  a  white  population  w^ere  the  Spanish  posts  of 
San  Antonia  de  Bexar,  Bahia,  or  Goliad,  and  Nacog- 
doches, comprising  in  all  about  3000  inhabitants.  Soon 
after  that  lime,  an  attempt  was  made  to  establish  here 
the  independent  republic  of  Fredonia ;  but  the  Mexican 
constitution  attached  the  territory  to  the  province  of 
Cohahuila,  forming  one  of  the  united  provinces  a  State, 
bearing  the  names  of  both.  In  consequence  of  the  en- 
couragement held  out  to  settlers,  there  was  a  great  in- 
flux of  emigrants  into  the  territory  from  the  United 
States,  many  of  whom  carried  with  them  their  slaves. 
In  183*2,  the  people  of  Texas  formed  for  themselves  a 
separate  State  constitution,  and  endeavoured  to  obtain 
from  the  Mexican  Congress  an  admission  into  the  con- 
federacy as  an  independent  State.  This  being  refused, 
a  state  of  things  ensued  which  resulted  in  an  appeal  to 
arms.  Texas  was  invaded  by  a  Mexican  army,  headed 
by  Santa  Anna,  the  President,  in  person.  At  first  the 
overwhelming  numerical   superiority   of  the   invaders 


STATE    OF    TEXAS. 


11 


;Iy  a 

'New 
idian 


gave  them  some  advantages,  which  enabled  them  to  ex- 
liibit  a  remarkable  ferocity  towards  their  prisoners, 
Hcveral  hundreds  of  whom  were  massacred  in  cold  blood. 
But  this  was  soon  reversed ;  and  at  the  battle  of  San 
Jacinto  the  Mexicans  were  utterly  routed,  and  their 
President  was  taken  prisoner  by  the  Texans.  In  March, 
1836,  the  people  of  Texas  declared  themselves  indepen- 
dent, and  afterwards  formed  a  constitution  and  govern- 
ment and  elected  a  chief  magistrate.  1'he  republic  was 
recognized  by  the  United  States,  France,  England,  and 
some  other  nations ;  but  not  by  Mexico. 

The  population  amounts  to  about  140,000,  nearly  all 
of  which  consists  of  Americans  from  the  United  States. 
The  slaves  amounted,  in  1843,  to  22,412.  The  military 
force  was  composed  chiefly  of  volunteer  troops  and 
militia;  the  navy  consisted  of  a  sloop  of  war,  two  brigs, 
and  an  armed  steamer,  several  schooners,  &c.  I'he 
value  of  the  imports  of  Texas  for  the  year  ending  July 
31st,  1844,  was  $686,503.03.  Exports  for  the  same 
period,  %15,119.34;  Net  duties,  $177^861.85.  Direct 
taxes  levied  in  1844,  $50,790.52;  the  public  debt  is  re- 
ported  (but  not  officially)  at  $8,169,000. 

The  question  of  annexing  I'exas  to  the  United  States 
was  agitated  immediately  after  the  declaration  of  Texan 
independence,  by  numerous  individuals  in  both  coun- 
tries, but  was  declined  by  the  American  government, 
until  Mexico  herself,  or  some  of  the  great  foreign  powers, 
should  recognise  the  independence  of  the  new  republic ; 
at  least  until  the  lapse  of  time,  or  course  of  events,  should 
have  proved,  beyond  cavil  or  dispute,  the  ability  of  the 
people  to  maintain  their  sovereignty,  or  to  uphold  the 
government  constituted  by  th'^:.  The  events  of  the 
last  eight  or  nine  years  have  shown  Texas  as  practically 
independent;  acknowledged  as  a  political  sovereignty 
by  tije  chief  European  powers,  and  Mexico  herself  re- 
fraining from  any  further  attempt  to  re-establish  her 
authority  over  the  new  republic. 

During  the  session  of  1844,  M5,  a  bill  passed  both 
Houses  of  Congress  of  the  United  States,  providing  for 


12 


DESCRIPTION    OF    THE 


\W 


:'! 


the  annexation  of  Texas.  The  government  of  the  latter 
was  somewhat  tardy  on  the  subject;  but  the  inhabitants 
evinced  such  strong  feelings  in  its  favour,  that  the  con- 
stituted authorities  were  at  length  obliged  to  perfect  the 
measure.  On  the  18th  of  June  1845,  the  Texan  Con- 
gress were  then  in  session  at  Washington,  on  the  Brazos 
River,  when  both  Houses  unanimously  consented  to  the 
terms  of  the  joint  resolution  of  the  United  States,  pro- 
viding for  the  admission  of  Texas  as  one  of  the  States 
of  the  American  Union.  A  convention  of  delegates  of 
the  people  of  Texas  met  July  6th,  1845,  and  ratified  the 
act  finally  ceding  the  Republic  to  the  United  States. 
In  the  United  States  Congress,  assembled  at  Washing. 
ton  City,  December  1845,  a  constitution  for  the  govern- 
ment  of  Texas  was  submitted,  and  adopted  by  a  vote  of 
141  to  56  in  the  House  of  Representatives,  and  31  to  15 
in  the  Senate.  By  the  same  resolution,  it  was  decided 
that  Texas  should  be  entitled  to  two  members  of  the 
House  of  Representatives  until  the  next  census  of  the 
United  States.  Texas  has  also  two  Senators  in  the 
national  councils. 

The  new  constitution  of  Texas  is  conformable  in  all 
respects  to  that  of  the  United  States,  and  is  nearly  sim- 
ilar in  its  provisions  with  the  constitutions  of  the  other 
slave-holding   states.     Entire  freedom  of  opinion,  and 
liberty  of  the  press,  are  guarantied.     No  religious  test 
shall  be  required  as  a  qualification  lor  office.    No  person 
shall  be  imprisoned  for  debt.     No  monopolies  or  perpe- 
•    tuities  shall  be  allowed,  nor  shall  the  law  of  primogeni- 
ture or  entailment  ever  be  in  force  in  Texas.     Every 
male  white  person,  over  twenty-one  years  of  age,  who 
is  a  citizen  of  the  United  States,  or  of  Texas  at  the  time 
of  the  adoption  of  the  constitution,  and  who  shall  have 
resided  in  the  state  one  year  preceding  an  election,  and 
for  the  last  six  months  within  the  county  where  he  offers 
>    to  vote,  shall  be  a  qualified  elector. 
'        The  executive  of  the  State  of  Texas  consists  of  a  go- 
1    vernor  and  lieutenant-governor;   both  elected   for  two 
<    years ;  the  salary  of  the  first  governor  is  $2000  annually. 


STATE    OF    TEXAS. 


13 


The  lieutenant-governor  is  president  of  the  Senate,  and 
is  to  exercise  the  authority  of  the  governor  in  case  of 
the  death,  resignation,  &-c.,  of  the  latter.  The  Legisla- 
ture consists  of  a  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives. 
Senators  are  elected  for  four,  and  Representatives  for 
two  years.  The  members  of  both  Houses  receive  threr 
dollars  per  day  for  their  services,  and  three  dollars  mile- 
age for  every  twenty-five  miles  in  going  to  or  returning 
from  the  place  of  meeting  of  the  Legislature.  One  half 
of  the  Senate  is  to  be  renewed  biennially,  to  effect  which 
purpose,  one  half  of  the  first  chosen  Senators  were 
elected  for  two  years  only.  The  Judiciary  consists  of  a 
Supreme  Court,  a  District  Court,  and  such  inferior 
courts  as  the  Legislature  shall  from  time  to  time  estab- 
lish ;  and  such  jurisdiction  may  be  vested  in  corporation 
courts  as  may  be  deemed  necessary,  and  be  directed  by 
law.  The  judges  of  the  Supreme  and  District  Courts 
are  appointed  by  the  Governor,  by  and  with  ths  advice 
and  consent  of  the  Senate,  for  six  years.  The  judges 
of  the  Supreme  Court  receive  a  salary  of  $2000,  and  th'i 
judges  of  the  district  courts  a  salary  of  $1750  annually. 

1'he  constitution  provides  that  the  Legislature  shall, 
at  their  first  meeting,  and  in  the  years  1848  and  1850, 
and  every  eight  years  thereafter,  cause  an  enumeration 
to  be  made  of  all  the  free  inhabitants  (Indians,  not  taxed, 
Africans,  and  descendants  of  Africans,  excepted)  of  the 
State,  designating  particularly  the  number  of  qualified 
electors;  and  the  whole  number  of  representatives  shall, 
at  the  several  periods  of  making  such  enumeration,  be 
fixed  by  the  Legislature,  and  apportioned  among  the 
several  counties,  cities,  or  towns,  according  to  the  num- 
ber  of  free  population  in  each,  and  shall  not  be  less  than 
45,  nor  more  than  90. 

Until  afler  the  first  enumeration  and  apportionment 
appointed  by  law,  the  following  is  to  be  the  apportion- 
ment of  representatives  amongst  the  several  counties, 
viz. :  the  county  of  Montgomery  shall  elect  four  repre- 
sentatives ;  the  counties  of  Red  River,  Harrison,  Nacog- 
doclics,  Harris  and  Washington,  three  each ;  the  coun- 
3 


) 

I 
s 

1 

3 

3k 


5 


f 


14 


DESCRIPTION    OF   THE 


ties  of  Fannin,  Lamar,  Bowie,  Shelby,  San  Augustine, 
Rusk,  Houston,  Sabine,  Liberty,  Robertson,  Galveston, 
Brazoria,  Fayette,  Colorado,  Austin,  Gonzales,  and 
Bexar,  two  each  ;  the  counties  of  Jefferson,  Jasper,  Bra- 
zos, Milam,  Bastrop,  Travis,  Matagorda,  Jackson,  Fort 
Bend,  Victoria,  Refugio,  Goliad,  and  San  Patricio,  one 
each ;  total,  67  representatives. 

The  whole  number  of  senators  shall,  at  the  next  ses- 
sion after  the  several  periods  of  making  the  enumera- 
tion, be  fixed  by  the  Legislature,  and  apportioned  among 
the  several  districts  to  be  established  by  law,  according 
to  the  number  of  qualified  electors,  and  shall  never  be 
less  than  19,  nor  more  than  33.  Until  the  first  enume- 
ration as  provided  by  law,  the  senatorial  districts  shall 
be  as  follows,  each  district  electing  one  senator : 


Diet.  Counties. 

1.  Fannin,   Lamar. 

2.  Reti  River,  Bowie. 
8.  Harrison. 

4.  Nacoedoches,  Rusk,  Houston. 

5.  iSaii  AutiUiiiine,  iShelby. 

6.  Sabine,  Jasper. 

7.  Ijiberiy,  Jefter.*»on. 

8.  Rdbertmin,  Brazos. 

9.  Montgomery. 
10.  Harrid. 


Diat.  Counties. 

11.  Galveston. 

U.  Brazoria,  Mafai^orda. 

13.  Austin,  Fort  Bend. 

14.  Colorado,   Fayette. 

15.  Bastrop,  Travis. 

16.  Washington,  Milam. 

17.  Victoria,  Gonzales,  Jackson. 

18.  Bexar. 

19.  Goliad,  Refugio,  San  Patricio. 


^  In  addition  to  the  above,  the  counties  of  Fannin,  La- 

mar, Red  River,  and  Bowie,  conjointly,  shall  elect  one 
senator ;  making  20  senators  in  all. 
1  On  the  annexation  of  Texas,  the  President  of  the 

1  United  States  directed  an  army  of  about  3000  men,  un- 
1  der  the  command  of  General  Taylor,  U.  S.  A.,  to  take  a 
i  position  at  Corpus  Christi,  the  nearest  town  in  Texas  to 
<  the  southern  boundary,  for  the  purpose  of  repelling  a 
I  threatened  invasion  of  that  part  of  the  United  States  by 
i     the  Mexicans. 

t         The  army  moved  from  Corpus  Christi,  March  11th, 

1846,  and  on  the  28th  of  the  same  month,  arrived  on  the 

V     left  bank  of  the  Rio  Grande,  opposite  to  Matamoras, 

y     where  it  encamped  in  a  commanding  position,  which  was 

afterwards  strengthened  by  the  addition  of  strong  field- 


I 


STATE  OF  TEXAS. 


15 


istine, 
^eston, 
and 
%  Bra- 
1,  Fort 
|io,  one 

xt  ses- 
mera- 
among 
ording 
lever  be 
ename- 
ls shall 


a. 


,  Jackson, 
n  Patricio.  \ 

f 
nin,  La-  | 
jlect  one        '\ 

t  of  the  ^ 
men,  un-  1 
to  take  a  | 
Texas  to 
)ellmg  a 
States  by 

rch  nth, 
id  on  the 
ta  moras, 
hicli  was 
)ng  field- 


works.  A  depo^  was  also  established  at  Point  Isabel, 
near  the  Barra,  or  Brazos  Santiago,  30  miles  in  the  rear 
of  the  encampment. 

The  Mexican  forces,  on  tlie  opposite  side  of  the  river, 
assumed  a  belligerent  attitude,  and  on  the  12th  of  April, 
General  Ampudia,  then  in  command,  notified  General 
Taylor  to  break  up  his  camp  within  24  hours,  and  to 
retire  beyond  the  Nueces  river,  and  in  the  event  of  his 
failure  to  comply  with  these  demands,  announced  H.^i 
arms,  and  arms  alone,  must  decide  the  question.  But 
no  open  act  of  hostility  was  committed  until  the  24th  of 
April.  On  that  day,  General  Arista,  who  had  succeeded 
to  the  command  of  the  Mexican  forces,  communicated 
to  General  Taylor  that  "he  considered  hostilities  com- 
menced, and  should  prosecute  them."  A  party  of  dra- 
goons of  63  men  and  officers,  under  the  command  of 
Captain  Thornton,  were,  on  the  same  day,  despatched 
from  the  American  camp  to  ascertain  whether  the  Mex- 
ican troops  had  crossed,  or  were  preparing  to  cross  the 
river,  "  became  engaged  with  a  large  body  of  those 
troops,  and  after  a  short  struggle,  in  which  16  were 
killed  and  wounded,  including  the  commander,  the  re- 
mainder were  surrounded  and  made  prisoners." 

The  intelUgence  of  this  event,  together  with  those  of  the 
previous  murder  of  Colonel  Cross  and  the  death  of  Lieu- 
tenant Porter,  excited  the  most  intense  interest  in  all  parts 
of  the  Union.  Active  measures  were  immediately  taken 
to  reinforce  the  army  on  the  Rio  Grande,  and  acts  were 
promptly  passed  by  both  houses  of  Congress,  appropri- 
ating $10,000,000  to  carry  on  the  war,  authorizing  the 
''^vernment  to  accept  of  the  services  of  50,000  volun- 
teers, to  increase  the  ranks  of  the  regular  army,  to  equip 
for  sea  all  the  available  naval  force,  and  directing  the 
President  to  issue  his  proclamation,  declaring  a  state  of 
war  to  exist  between  the  United  States  and  Mexico, 
which  was  accordingly  proclaimed.  May  13th,  1846. 

With  the  exception  of  Galveston  and  Houston,  the 
towns  of  Texas  are,  for  the  most  part,  mere  villagep. 
Austin,  Houston,  Galveston,  San  Augustine,  and  Mata- 


> 
1 

5 
1 

S 


.1 


.^—XK 


10 


DESCKIPTION   OF   THK 


f 

1                                    , 

1:1  i  ■■ 

'   |!!      : 

f       •'        '■ 

1   n    i 

1 

Mi      1 

( 

.  i     1 

;       I. 

W 

a: 

gorda  arc  cities  incorporated  on  the  plan  of  those  in  the 
United  States. 

Austin,  the  capital  of  the  State,  is  in  Travis  coun- 
ty, on  the  left  bank  of  the  Colorado  River,  upwards 
of  200  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  1681  miles  from 
Washington  City.  It  contains  the  late  Capitol,  and 
President's  House,  with  two  churches,  and  from  '280 
to  300  dwellings:  population,  from  1000  to  1500. 

Galveston,  the  capital  of  Galveston  county,  is  the  chief 
sea-port,  and  largest  town  in  Texas  ;  it  is  situated  on  tin* 
east  end  of  Galveston  Island,  fronting  the  bay  of  that 
name ;  255  miles  from  Austin,  400  miles  from  New  Or- 
leans, and  1609  miles  from  Washington.  This  city  was 
laid  out  in  1837,  and  has  from  5000  to  7000  inhabitants  ; 
it  has  considerable  commerce,  and  constant  intercourse 
with  New  Orleans,  New  York,  and  other  ports.  The 
harbour  is  good,  and  the  entrance  to  it  has  12  feet 
water  on  it  at  low  tide. 

Houston,  the  second  town  in  Texas,  in  point  of 
importance,  is  at  the  head  of  permanent  navigation 
on  the  Buffalo  Bayou,  a  small  but  deep  stream, 
which  flows  into  Galveston  Bay ;  it  is  the  capital  of 
Harris  county.  It  was  settled  in  the  year  1S36,  and 
was  for  a  short  time  tlic  seat  of  government.  Houston 
bids  fair  to  become  a  considerable  town  ;  in  1845  from 
12,000  to  15,000  bales  of  cotton  were  shipped  from  it : 
population,  4000  to  5000.  It  is  80  miles  from  Galves- 
ton, 175  from  Austin,  and  1529  from  Washington. 

San  Augustine,  the  capital  of  San  Augustine  county, 
is  situated  on  the  Ayish  Bayou,  a  small  stream  which 
flows  into  the  Angelina,  a  tributary  of  the  Nechcs 
River,  312  miles  from  Austin,  and  1369  from  Wash- 
ington ;  it  is  one  of  the  finest  towns  in  Texas,  being  in 
tlie  midst  of  a  fertile  and  healthy  cou  %ry.  Here  is  the 
University  of  San  Augustine,  and  the  Wesleyan  College 
of  Texas  :  population,  1500. 

San  Antonio,  or  San  Antonio  de  Bexar,  the  capital 
of  Bexar  county,  is  115  miles  S.  W.  from  Austin, 
and  1796   from  Washington;   if  is  one  of  the   oldest 


STATE    OF    TEXAS. 


17     \ 


in  the 

coun- 
pwards 
from 
ol,  and 
om  2b0 
). 

le  chief 
1  on  tlie 
of  that 
!^ew  Or- 
city  was 
ibitants ; 
ercourse 
ts.  The 
5  12  feet 

point  of 
avigation 
»  stream, 
;apital  of 
1836,  and 
Houston 
845  from 
I  from  it: 
n  GalvcB- 
Jton. 

le  county, 
am  which 
le  Ncchcs 
>m  Wash- 
J,  being  in 
lere  is  the 
an  College 

the  capital 
m  Austin, 
the   oldest 


towns  in  Texas,  and  was  for  a  long  time  a  Spa^ 
nish,  and  afterwards  a  Mexican  military  post.  The  fort 
or  Alamo,  has  been  called  the  Thermopylae  of  Texas,  in 
commemoration  of  its  gallant  defence  by  Colonel  Travis 
and  his  brave  companions,  in  1836,  against  the  Mexi- 
cans  :  it  is  now  in  ruins.  The  town  once  contained  6000 
or  8000  inhabitants,  but  at  present  the  population  is  es- 
timated at  1800.  The  houses  are  mostly  of  one  story, 
built  of  stone,  and  with  terraced  roofs. 

The  most  important  of  the  other  towns  are  Nacog- 
doches and  San  Felipe,  or  San  Felipe  de  Austin,  withi 
1000  inhabitants  each.  Washington,  with  600,  Brazoria, 
Matagorda,  and  Vclasco,  with  500  each,  and  Bastrop, 
with  400. 

Santa  Fe,  the  chief  town  of  New  Mexico,  is  within 
the  bounds  assumed  by  the  late  Congress  of  Texas, 
but  the  latter  never  acquired  possession  of  that  part 
of  the  country,  and  it  is  still  under  the  government 
of  Mexico.  It  has  from  5000  to  6000  inhabitants,  and 
is  the  chief  emporium  of  the  overland  trade  that  has 
been  carried  on  from  the  State  of  Missouri  since  the 
year  1822.  There  the  American  and  Mexican  traders 
traffic  the  manufactures  and  imported  goods,  brought 
by  the  former,  for  the  peltries  and  bullion  of  Mexico, 
and  a  considerable  amount  of  specie  reaches  the  United 
States  by  this  route. 

The  annual  value  of  the  overland  commerce  has  been 
estimated  when  at  its  height,  from  1834  to  1841,  at  two 
millions  of  dollars;  since  the  last  named  period,  the 
trade  was  suspended  for  .^  time  by  the  Mexican  author- 
ities, but  it  is  now  reviving.  In  the  year  1845,  there 
left  Independence  for  Santa  Fe,  141  waggons,  21  car- 
riages, 1078  oxen,  716  mules,  39  horses,  and  203  men, 
employed  &s  drivers,  &c.  The  cost  of  the  goods  thus 
transported,  in  the  States,  according  to  the  invoices,  was 
$342,530;  cost  of  outfit,  waggons,  teams,  &c.,  887,790; 
duties,  $107,757 ;  cost  of  freight  from  Independence  to 
Santa  F^,  10  cents  per  pound,  bein^  the  usual  rate  of 
carriag^e. 


1 
S 

a 

s 
e 
d 
i. 
I, 

g 

;£ 

1 

If 
( 

!< 
.1 


•I 


I 


18 


DESCRIPTION    OF    THE 


h  9' 


ill 


I  i 


f 


J  1 


In  the  early  state  of  the  Santa  Fe  trade,  pack- 
horses  and  mules  were  employed  in  the  transportation 
of  goods,  but  waggons  are  now  used  ;  the  traders  com- 
monly form  caravans  of  sometimes  a  hundred  waggons 
in  company.  From  Independence  to  Santa  Fe  the  di- 
rection is  W.  by  S.,  nearly :  the  distance  is  about  780 
miles,  and  many  dangers  and  privations  are  encountered. 
Part  of  the  route  is  through  a  country  much  infested 
by  hostile  Indians,  who  sometimes  attack  the  traders, 
when  the  latter  defend  themselves  with  their  rifles. 
The  United  States  government  has,  on  several  occa- 
lions,  sent  escorts  of  troops  for  the  protection  of  the  ca- 
ravans. 


Indians  attacking  the  Santa  Fc  Traders. 

Corpus  Christi,  a  new  town  on  Nueces  Bay,  and  be- 
low the  mouth  of  Nueces  River,  was  for  some  time  oc- 
cupied by  the  American  army  under  the  command  of 
General  Taylor,  previous  to  its  advance  to  the  Rio 
Grande. 

i  Point  Isabel,  a  small  village  on  the  coast,  110  miles 
flouth  of  Corpus  Christi,  was   inhabited  by  Mexicans. 

I     On  the  laic  approach  of  General  Taylor's  army,  they 


.1    i 


! 


STATE    OF    TKXAS. 


11) 


lack- 

Ltion 

50  ni- 

igons 

|e  di- 

780 

tered. 

iested 

iders, 

Irifles. 

occa- 

he  ca- 


and  bc- 
ime  oc- 
land  of 
the  Rio 

LO  miles 
exicans. 
ay,  they 


evacuated  the  place,  burning  the  cuatom-housc  and  some 
other  buildings.  It  is  on  a  higli  bluff,  which  projects 
a  short  distance  into  the  sea,  and  is  opposite  the  Barra, 
or  Brazos  Santiago,  an  opening  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico 
into  the  lagoon,  into  whicli  the  point  projects. 

About  30  miles  nearly  south  of  Point  Isabel,  and  on 
the  Mexican  or  right  bank  of  the  Rio  Grande,  20  miles 
from  its  mouth,  is  Matamoras,  tlie  most  important  town 
in  this  quarter.  Seen  from  the  American  side,  it  has 
the  appearance  of  being  an  American  town.  The 
streets  intersect  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  are  lined 
with  various  kinds  of  shade-trees.  Some  of  the  build. 
ings  are  of  brick,  in  the  modern  style.  The  Cathedral, 
market,  and  houses  occupied  by  the  military,  are  among 
the  finest  in  the  place.  The  dwellings  of  the  lower  classes 
are  constructed  of  canes,  brush-wood,  &c.,  and  are  essen. 
tially  Mexican.  There  are  several  forts  armed  with  gunt 
of  different  calibre,  and  a  garrison  usually  of  500  or  60( 
men.  The  population  is  from  5000  to  7000;  it  was  onc< 
more  considerable,  but  has  declined  in  consequence  of 
the  internal  commotions  of  the  country.  Matamoras  i: 
about  2050  miles  south-west  by  west  from  Washingtoi 
city,  and  nearly  600  almost  due  north  from  the  city  o\ 
Mexico. 

It  may  not  be  improper  here  to  add,  that  the  town  o: 
Matamoras  was  recently  much  injured  by  a  cannonad 
from  the  American  batteries  on  the  opposite  side  of  th 
Rio  Grande,  consequent  upon  the  commencement  o 
hostilities  between  the  two  republics  of  the  Unite 
States  and  Mexico. 


JO 


DESCRIPTION    OF    TEXA55. 


TRAVELLING  ROUTES  IN  TEXAS. 


11 


\i\ 


JSustin  to  Sahinc  Town. 

Frum  AuMtin 
)  Uamrop 


JBrHZiiM  Rivnr-  -  -  - 
Nuvasulrt  Kiver  -  - 
Uoi)()iir8  Ferry,  on  the 

'J'rmiiy 

Crockt't 

Macu(fdncho8  -  -  - 
San  AuKUstino  -    -    - 

ISIilam 

Bubine  Town    -    -    - 


33 
78 
'di 

48 
W5 
62 
35 
15 
15 


109 
142 

190 
•215 
277 
312 
327 
342 


Jlustin  to  the  Rio  Grande. 

From  Austin 

I   Hiig'rop 33 

R.  San  MarcoH  -    -    -  45 

i!   (Jiindalupe    -    -    -  20 

San  Antonio      -    -    -  50 

R.  t^aii  Miguel  -    -    -  42 

Kio  Fiio \\o 

K.  jN  uecos     -    -    -    -  C2 

Rio  GranJc  •    -    -    -  50 


x^iistin  to  Galveston 

From  Austin 

Busirop     -    -  -  - 

La  (Jrantie    -  -  - 

Rutersviile    -  -  - 
San  t'clipe  do  Au!>tin 

Houston         -  -  - 

Galveston      -  -  - 


33 

40 

6 

42 


00 

bO 


Austin  to  Matafforda. 

rrom  Austin 

Bastrop 33 

Lat;range  -----  40 

Coiutnbus  -----  35 

Kgypt 30 

Precton      -----  20 

Matagorda    -    -    -    -  40 


Austin  to  Brazoria. 


*rom  Austin 
Han  F«lipe  de  Austin, 
at  before     -    -    -    - 


78 

98 
148 
IHO 
220 
282 
332 


73 

78 
120 
1/5 
235 


73 

108 
].id 
158 
198 


120 


Richmond     -    -    -    .      40    160 

Unluinbia 40    200 

Brazuria 11    211 


.Austin  to  If  a 

skill  ff  ton 

.  Ts 

• 

Fiuin  AudUii 

to  Buiiirop  • 

-    -    - 

33 

40 

73 

ijHKran{;0  - 

•*        " 

RuierHViile-    - 

.    _    _ 

6 

78 

Industry     -    - 

.    -    - 

20 

W 

Independence 

-    -    - 

2y 

12/ 

Wusnuigiun  - 

-    -    - 

11 

138 

Austin  to  jMataworas. 

From  Austin 

to  Kastrop 33 

Gonziiies 55 

Goliud 60 

iSan  Patricio     -    -    -  75 

Maiamuras  -    ■     •    -  145 


88 
118 
223 
3t)d 


Austin  to  Corpus  Omsti. 

From  Austin 

to  Bastrop 33 

Gonzales 65      88 

Goliad 60    148 

Corpus  Christ!    -    -    -  45    193 


J^Tacogdoches  to  Natchitoches, 
/.a. 

From  Nacogdoches 
to  Sun  Augustine  -  - 
Milr^m  -  -  -  -  - 
Sabine  Town  -  - 
Fort  Jesup.  La.  -  - 
Natchitoches      -    - 


35 
15 
15 
29 
25 


50 

65 

94 

119 


Nacogdoches  to  Fulton,  Ark. 

From  Nacogdoches 

to  Ht-nderson      -    -    -    -  32 

Dantrerfield    -    -    -    -  80    112 

Boston 81    ^12 

Fallen 45    188 


OREGON  AND  CALIFORNIA. 


1: 


The  map  of  Oregon  and  California  reprcisenls  that 
part  of  the  west  coast  of  North  America  which  extends 
from  north  latitude  32°  to  54°  40',  and  from  the  Pacific 
Ocean  to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  It  includes  an  extent 
of  country  one-fourth  the  size  of  Europe,  beings  15()0 
miles  in  length,  with  a  breadth  varying  from  350  to  800 
miles,  and  an  area  of  about  825,000  square  miles,  or 
528,000,000  acres. 

Oregon  forms  the  southern  part  of  the  "  North-west 
Coast,"  a  term  used  in  tiie  United  States  to  designate 
that  portion  of  country  lying  along  the  shores  of  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  from  Cape  Mendocino,  in  north  latitude 
40°,  to  Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  in  latitude  about  65*^. 
The  northern  section  of  California,  reaching  from  the 
sea  800  miles  eastward  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
two  degrees  of  latitude  in  width  south  of  Oregon,  being 
about  a  fourth  part  of  the  territory  which  is  included 
within  the  bounds  of  the  "North-west  Coast."  The 
term  in  question  was  derived  from  the  circumstance  of 
the  part  of  the  country  to  which  it  is  applied  lying  in  a 
direction  north-west  from  the  settled  districts  of  the 
United  States. 

The  coast  of  California,  as  well  as  most  part  of  the  coast 
of  Oregon,  differs  essentially  from  that  on  the  Atlantic  in 
the  same  latitudes.  The  Atlantic  coast  is  low  and  open, 
indented  with  numerous  bays,  sounds,  and  river  estu- 
aries, accessible  everywhere,  and  opening  by  many 
channels  into  the  interior.  The  Pacific  coast,  as  far 
north  as  Cape  Flattery,  is  high  and  compact,  with  few 
bays,  and  but  one  (the  Columbia  river)  that  opens  a  pas- 
sage of  any  importance  into  the  heart  of  the  country. 
The  immediate  coast  is  bold  and  abrupt,  being  of  the  cha< 
racter  that  seamen  call  iron-bound ;  some  distance  in- 
land it  is  skirted  by  ranges  of  mountains,  standing  as. 
ramparts  between  it  and  the  interior  country.  From  about^ 
latitude  34°  to  3S°  hardly  an  island  is  to  be  met  with,  and 

(21) 


li 


522 


DKSCKIPTION    OF 


'J 


m 


the  harbours  arc  few  and  ineflicient,  except  in  the  case 
of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco ;  but  from  Cape  Flattery,  the 
southern  boundary  of  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  the 
coast  assumes,  in  going  nortiiward,  a  different  aspect: 
the  continent,  as  well  as  tlie  larger  islands,  though  the 
,  shores  are  still  elevated,  is  indented  with  innumerable 
t  gulfs,  bays,  sounds,  harbours,  &c.  Various  narrow 
passages^  or  canals,  as  tiiey  are  chiefly  called,  run  up 
into  the  interior,  forming  numerous  islands,  and  con- 
taining many  fine  harbours,  that  are  destined  doubtless 
at  some  future  period  to  teem  with  a  busy  population. 

Within  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca  and  tiic  Gulf  of 
Georgia  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  tides  is  about  eighteen 
feet,  and  the  depth  of  water  is  in  most  cases  sufficient 
for  large-sized  merchantmen.     South  of  Cape  Flattery 
,   the  harbours  at  the  moutlis  of  rivers  are  generally  ob- 
structed by  sand-bars,  and  even  the  mouth  of  the  Coluin- 
'  bia  is  impracticable  for  a  considerable  part  of  the  year, 
during  which  time  it  is  equally  dangerous  to  leave  it. 
'.  In  the  year  1841,  the  U.  S.  sloop-of-war  Peacock,  be- 
longing to  the  exploring  expedition,  was  wrecked  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia,  and  several  merchantmen  have 
p  also  been  lost  near  the  same  spot. 
{      Oregon  and  California  are  bounded  on  the  east  by  the 
I  Rocky  Mountains,  which  extend,  under  different  names, 
J  I'rom  the  Arctic  Ocean  to  the  Isthmus  of  Darien,  where 
i  they  connect  with  the  Andes  of  South  America.    South- 
ward  of  latitude  40°  north,  they  are  called  the  Anahuac 
Mountains,  and  farther  south  the  Sierra  de  los  Mimbres, 
•^j  the   Sierra  Madre,  and   the  Mexican  Cordilleras;   the 
1  whole  ransre  extends  in  a  direction  from  north-west  to 
J  south-east,  and  at  different  distances  from  the  coast.    In 
J  latitude  40°  it  is  about  750  miles  from  the  Pacific,  while 

in  54°  40'  it  is  not  more  than  half  that  distance. 

'  '      Between  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  the  Pacific  Ocean 

•„  both  Oregon  and  California  are  traversed  by  two,  and 

?a  in  some  parts  three,  lof\y  ridges,  which  divide  the  coun- 

*  try  into  distinct  belts  or  regions.     The  most  elevated 

portion  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  chain  is  about  the  52d 

degree  of  north  latitude.     Mount   Brown  and   Mount 

i 


■■ 


OREGON    AND    CALIFOUMA. 


23 


; 


•^ 


'■ 


Hooktr,  iU  most  lolly  peaks,  arc  respectively  16,000 
uiid  15,700  feet  high  ;  further  southward  the  highest 
summit  is  Fremont's  Peak,  which  is  elevated  13,570 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  This  lofty 
peak  is  called  aflcr  the  enterprising  ollicer  whose  narno 
it  bears,  and  who  ascended  to  its  summit  August  15tli 
1842,  and  determined  its  height  and  character.  On  its 
western  declivity  the  Green  River,  the  head  stream  of 
tlic  (>olorado,  and  on  tiie  opposite  side  the  liig  Horn 
Kiver,  a  tributary  of  the  Yellow  Stone,  take  their  rise. 

In  these  mountains  many  of  the  great  rivers  of  North 
America  have  their  sources,  and  flow  hence  to  all 
points  of  the  compass.  Within  a  short  distance  of  the 
South  Pass  there  rise,  on  the  eastern  side,  the  Missouri, 
the  Yellow  Stone,  the  Platte,  and  the  Arkansas,  tho 
waters  of  all  of  which  are  carried  through  the  Missis, 
sippi  into  the  Mexican  Gulf,  and  the  Rio  Grande  del 
Norte  or  Rio  Bravo,  which  flows  into  the  same  arm  of 
the  Altantic ;  while,  on  the  western  side,  are  found  the 
fc'ources  of  the  Colorado,  the  Snake  or  Lewis,  the  Flat- 
head or  Clarke's,  and  the  main  Columbia.  Farther 
north  rise  the  Saskatchawan,  whose  waters  flow  through 
Lake  Winnipeg  into  Hudson's  Bay,  and  the  Athabasca 
and  Peace  Rivers,  head  tributaries  of  the  Mackenzie, 
whicli  winds  its  course  to  the  Arctic  Ocean. 

The  wild  goat 
and  sheep  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains 
were  long  sup- 
posed to  be  pecu- 
liar to  that  range, 
and  derived  their 
names  from  that 
circumstance;  but 
they  are  now 
known  to  abound 
also  in  the  Sierra 
Nevada  ofCalifor-  ^> 
nia,  as  well  as  in 
the  cascade  range  of  Oregon.     The  first  is  as  large 


1    24 


DESCRIPTION    OF 


m 


m  ' 


Uie  domestic  sheep,  its  fleece  hanging  down  on  the  sides 
like  that  of  the  Merino  breed.  The  hair  is  long  and 
straight,  coarser  than  that  of  the  wsheep,  but  finer  than 

that  of  the  common 
goat.  Both  these  ani- 
mals inhabit  the  most 
lofty  peaks  of  the 
mountains,  their  range 
extending,  it  is  said, 
from  Lat.  40°  to  65°. 
The  Rocky  Mountain, 
or  big-horn  sheep,  is 
larger  than  any  do- 
mestic    sheep :      the 

Rocky  Mountain  Sheep.  ^oms  of  the  ram  are 

immense.  1  he  hair  is 
like  that  of  the  reindeer ;  at  first  short,  fine,  and  flexi- 
ble ;  bat  as  winter  advances,  it  becomes  coarse,  dry,  and 
brittle ;  though  it  feels  soft,  it  is  then  so  close  as  to  be- 
come  erect.  These  animals  collect  in  flocks  of  fron^ 
three  to  thirty,  the  young  rams  and  the  females  herding 
together,  while  the  old  rams  form  separate  flocks.  The 
horns  of  old  rams  attain  a  size  so  enormous  that  they 
effectually  prevent  the  animal  from  fetd'mg  upon  level 
ground.  The  flesh  is  said  to  be  superior  to  any  do- 
mestic mutton. 

In  the  Rocky  Mountains  there  are  several  passages  or 
gaps,  through  which  travellers  journey  from  one  side  of 
the  continent  to  the  other  j  that  used  l>y  the  traders  of  the 
Hudson^s  Bay  Company  is  a  tremendous  cleft,  overliung 
by  the  loftiest  peaks  of  the  great  chain;  it  passes  between 
Mount  Brown  and  Mount  Hooker,  both  of  wliich  rise 
far  above  the  inferior  limit  of  perpetual  snow,  and  pre- 
sent a  grand  and  imposing  spectacle.  Fartiier  to  the 
southward,  in  latitudes  46°  30'  and  44°  30',  are  the  gaps 
through  which  Lewis  and  Clarke  travelled,  in  their  jour- 
,  ney  to  and  from  the  opposite  sides  of  the  American  con- 
:  tinent.  Still  farther  south,  is  the  "South  Pass,"  the  most 
remarkable  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  one  of  the 


i 

\i 


3 


OREGON    AND   CALIFOUMA* 


26 


most  noted  passes  through  a  mountain  chain  in  the 
world.  It  was  discovered  some  years  ago,  and  was  ex* 
plored  and  described  by  Captain  Fremont,  U.  S.  A.,  in 
the  year  1842.  The  South  Pass  is  at  the  head  of  the 
Sweetwater,  a  tributary  of  the  Platte  or  Nebraska  river, 
and  at  the  base  of  the  Wind  River  chain  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  in  north  latitude  42°  25',  longitude  3'2^  10', 
west  of  Washington  City,  or  109°  10'  west  of  Green- 
wich. The  Pass  is  from  15  to  20  miles  wide,  and  so 
gradual  in  its  ascent,  from  the  plains  east  and  west  of 
it,  that  it  is  not  very  easy  to  determine  precisely  its  cul- 
minating  point,  and  wagons  or  travelling  vehicles  of  any 
kind  may  pass  through  with  as  much  ease  as  along  a 
level  and  beaten  road. 

The  chief  river  of  the  North-West  Territory,  is  the 
Columbia  or  Oregon.  It  is  the  largest  American  stream 
which  flows  into  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Its  main  source 
iiR  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  about  latitude  50  degrees 
north,  whence  it  takes  a  course,  at  first  north-west  and 
then  south,  for  a  distance  of  875  miles  to  its  junction 
with  the  Lewis  or  Snake  river,  which  joins  it  from  the 
south-east,  a  few  miles  above  Wallawalla;  from  hence 
to  the  ocean,  the  direction  of  the  united  stream  is  nearly 
west,  and  the  distance  350  miles.  The  chief  tribu- 
taries of  the  northern  or  main  branch,  are  the  Flat  Bow 
or  Kootanie^  and  Clarke's  or  M'Giilivray's,  and  Okona- 


gan  rivers. 


Lewis,  Snake,  or  Saptin  river,  is  the  great  southern 
branch  of  the  Columbia;  from  its  source  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  nortli  of  Fremont's  Peak,  it  has  a  course  of 
about  780  miles  ;  its  rapids  and  falls  greatly  obstruct 
canoe  navigation.  The  Kooskooskee,  Salmon,  and  other 
rivers,  both  from  the  east  and  west,  flow  into  it.  At  its 
confluence  with  the  main  stream,  the  Lewis  river  is 
600  yards  wide :  at  the  same  point  the  Columbia  has  a 
breadth  of  1000  yards :  in  the  latter,  both  above  and 
below  the  junction,  there  arc  many  obstructions  ;  about 
180  miles  lower  down  are  th-^  Dalles,  where  there  is  a 
succession  of  rapids  and  falls  in  the  river  for  several 
3 


20 


DEbURlPTlON    OF 


11 


il 


i 


if , 


III'' 


miles ;  40  miles  below,  and  130  miles  from  the  sea,  are 
the  Cascades,  where  the  river  breads  through  the  Cas- 
cade range ;  its  channel  is  here  compressed  into  a  nar- 
row go.o^e,  only  150  yards  across,  and  its  waters  are 
hurried  with  great  violence  over  its  rocky  bed ;  at  the 
foot  of  the  Cascades  it  meets  the  tide,  and  thence  to  the 
sea  the  river  is  rarely  less  than  a  mile  broad ;  within 
six  or  seven  leagues  of  the  Pacific,  it  increases  in  width 
from  two  to  four  miles,  and  at  its  mouth  its  width  is 
seven  miles. 

The  Columbia  preserves  throughout  its  character  as 
a  river,  being  rapid  in  its  current,  and  perfectly  fresh 
and  potable  to  within  a  league  of  the  ocean,  except 
during  very  dry  seasons  and  the  prevalence  of  violent 
westerly  winds.  Ships  of  300  or  400  tons  can  ascend 
nearly  to  the  loot  of  the  Cascades  ;  the  navigation,  espe- 
cially of  the  lower  part  of  the  river,  is  somewhat  dan- 
gerous, in  consequence  of  its  numerous  shoals.  The 
Columbia  and  its  tributaries  are  famous  for  their  salmon, 
which  comprise  six  different  species,  and  are  all  excel- 
lent eating ;  these  fish  are  taken  in  great  numbers  by 
the  Indians,  as  well  as  by  the  white  settlers,  chiefly  at 
ihe  foot  of  the  various  falls  and  rapids  in  th  rivers ;  they 
begin  to  ascend  from  the  sea  about  the  middle  of  April, 
and  in  the  course  of  three  or  four  months  are  found  at 
the  heads  of  the  remotest  tributaries. 

A  short  distance  below  the  Cascades,  the  Willamette 
river  enters  the  Columbia  from  the  south ;  it  rises  on 
the  west  side  of  the  Cascade  range,  in  about  latitude  44P 
north,  and  has  a  course  of  about  200  miles.  In  the 
valley  of  this  stream,  nearly  all  the  American  emigrants 
are  settled;  and  at  the  falls,  15  miles  from  its  mouth,  is 
Oregon  city,  an  American  village  of  50  or  60  houses ; 
the  country  iri  the  vicinity,  and  all  along  the  coast  to 
the  southward,  presents  greater  advantages  of  soil  and 
climate  than  any  other  part  of  the  territory.  Near  the 
southern  boundary  of  Oregon,  are  the  Umpqua  and 
Klamet  rivers,  but  neither  of  them  offers  any  facilities 
for  commercial  communication  ;  on  the  foriiicr,  a  few 


il 


m 
exl 

asl 
sol 
mi 
sa 


OREGON    AND    CALIFORNIA. 


27 


■ii 


miles  from  its  mouth,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  have 
a  trading  post  or  fort. 

The  only  other  river  of  any  note  in  Oregon,  is  Frazer's, 
the  Tacoutchee  Tesse  of  Mackenzie.  It  fiovi^s  in  a  direc- 
tion nearly  south  from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  into  the 
Gulf  of  Georgia ;  its  course  is  about  750  miles  in  length, 
and  it  drains  with  its  tributaries  nearly  all  the  country 
between  the  parallels  of  49^  and  58^,  and  westward  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains.  Thompson's  and  Stuart's  rivers 
are  its  chief  branches ;  on  all  these  rivers  there  are 
various  trading  posts  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
established. 

The  Colorado,  or  Red  River  of  California,  so  called 
from  the  colour  of  its  waters,  is  the  principal  stream  of 
California ;  it  flows  from  the  Wind  River  chain  a  south- 
south- west  course  of  ttbout  1100  miles,  into  the  head  of 
the  Gulf  of  California.  The  country  in  its  vicinity,  for 
some  distance  from  its  mouth,  is  flat,  and  is  overflowed 
curing  the  rainy  season,  when  the  quantity  of  water 
discharged  is  very  great,  and  high  embankments  are 
thus  made  by  the  deposit  of  mud  on  each  side,  similar 
to  those  on  the  Lower  Mississippi.  The  region  through 
which  the  Colorado  flows  is  almost  unknown,  being 
still  in  possession  of  the  native  tribes.  Green  and 
Grand  rivers  are  the  largest  of  its  upper  branches;  both 
rise  within  the  limits  of  the  United  States — the  first  at 
the  base  of  Fremont's  Peak,  and  the  other  on  the 
western  side  of  Long's  Peak.  The  Gila,  the  largest 
and  most  southern  tributary  of  the  Colorado,  is  a  river 
of  500  miles  in  length,  and  flows  from  that  part  of  the 
Rocky  Mountain  range  called  the  Sierra  de  los  Mim- 
bres ;  the  country  on  its  banks,  both  north  and  south,  is 
inhabited  by  Indian  tribes,  of  wliich  nothing  is  known 
except  their  names.  How  far  the  Colorado  may  be 
ascended  by  vessels  from  the  gulf,  is  not  known  :  from 
some  accounts,  it  seems  to  be  navigable  for  300  or  400 
miles,  while,  according  to  others,  obstacles  to  the  pas- 
saj^e  of  vessels  occur  much  nearer  to  the  sea. 

The  other  rivers  of  California  worthy  of  note,  are  the 


28 


DESCRIPTION    Oi 


III 


r^fl! 


:.«i 


'I* 
0 

m 


Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin,  both  of  which  flow  into 
the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  or  Bay  of  Sir  I^rancis  Drake. 
The  Sacramento  rises  in  Oregon  Territory,  near  the 
sources  of  the  Fall  river,  a  branch  of  the  Columbia.  It 
flows  nearly  south,  draining-  the  fine  valley  which  lies 
between  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  the  coast  range  of  moun- 
tains; after  a  course  of  400  miles,  it  enters  San  Fran, 
cisco  Bay,  nearly  opposite  to  the  mouth  of  the  San 
Joaquin.  It  is  supposed  to  be  navigable  for  vessels  of 
some  burthen  about  200  mile^.  On  the  Rio  de  loa 
Americanos,  (or  river  of  the  .*^  mericans,)  one  of  its 
branches,  is  Nueva  Helvetia,  a  recently  founded  Ameri- 
can settlement.  The  San  Joaquin  llows  from  the  south 
into  San  Francisco  Bay ;  it  is  a  smaller  river  than  the 
Sacramento,  and  drains  the  southern  part  of  the  same 
valley  ;  it  rises  also  in  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and' is  in  ex- 
tent about  220  miles;  during  the  annual  overflow  of  the 
rivers  in  this  quarter,  it  is  connected  with  the  Tule 
lakes,  further  south,  but  at  other  times  the  connecting 
stream  is  dried  up,  and  ceases  to  flow.  1'he  inhabitants 
on  the  banks  of  these  rivers,  except  a  few  American 
settlers  on  the  Sacramento,  are  mostly  Indians. 

The  Rio  San  Buenaventura  is  of  less  importarce  than 
either  of  the  foregoing  ;  it  rises  in  the  coast  range,  and 
flows  nearly  parallel  with  the  shore  of  the  Pacific,  and 
at  a  distance  of  only  30  miles  from  it.  It  has  a  north- 
west course  of  about  130  miles,  and  falls  into  tho  Bay 
of  Monterey.  The  other  streams  along  the  sea  coast 
are  mere  rivulets,  and  the  general  infrequency  of  rivers 
and  springs  is  the  chief  defect  of  the  country,  though 
water  may  be  obtained  in  most  places  by  digging. 

The  interior  rivers  of  California  are  of  little  note,  and 
are  almost  unknown.  The  Bear  river  is  the  chief  feeder 
of  the  Great  Salt  lake,  situated  in  the  north-eastern  part 
of  California.  It  enters  on  the  east  side  of  the  lake,  and 
has  a  tortuous  course  of  250  or  260  miles,  cliiefly  among 
high  rugged  mountains.  Sevier  river  is  a  recent  disco- 
very, and  was  first  described  by  Captain  Fremont ;  its 
precise  course  is  unknown ;  it  flows  probably  into  the 


Wa 

firs 

bre 

sac[ 

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sma 

long 

a  bo 

Th( 

and 

then 
T 

are 

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vate 

ries,| 

rive 

cici 


OREGON    AND    CALIFORNIA. 


29 


into 

rake, 
the 
It 
lieB 

fioun- 

Fran. 
San 

els  of 

le   los 

of  its 

imeri. 
south 

an  the 
same 
in  cx- 
of  the 

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bitants 

lerican 

ce  than 
ge,  and 
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L  north- 
ho  Bay 
la  coast 
if  rivers 
though 

'^-         A 
ote,  and 

3f  feeder 

ern  part 

ake,  and 

y  among 

a  disco- 

lont;  its 

into  the 


Colorado.  Mary's  river  is  described  by  emigrants  to 
Cahfornia  as  flowing,  for  about  250  miles,  along  the 
northern  edge  of  the  Great  Interior  t)esert,  or  Basin  of 
California ;  it  terminates  in  a  small  lake,  or  sink-hole, 
not  far  from  the  eastern  base  of  ihe  Sierra  Nevada. 

The  regions  on  the  Pacific  side  of  North  America  differ 
in  climate  from  those  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  the 
same  latitudcc^.  In  the  countries  on  the  west  side,  of 
corresponding  parallels  v^ith  Wisconsin,  Michigan, 
Canada,  Nova  Scotia,  and  Newfoundland,  the  ground  is 
rarely  covered  with  snow  for  more  than  three  or  four 
weeks  in  each  year,  and  it  often  remains  unfrozen 
throughout  the  winter.  In  those  opposite  to  Virginia 
and  Carolina,  the  winter  is  merely  a  wet  season,  no  rain 
falling  at  any  other  time ;  and  in  the  Californian  penin. 
sula,  which  is  included  between  the  same  parallels  as 
Georgia  and  Florida,  the  temperature  is  as  high  as  in 
any  tropical  region,  and  many  years  pass  by  without  a 
shower  or  even  a  cloud. 

Two  of  the  largest  islands  of  the  north-west  coast, 
Quudra  and  Vancouver  s,  and  Queen  Charlotte's,  or 
Washington  Island,  lie  off  the  coast  of  Oregon.  The 
first  named  is  280  miles  long,  with  50  of  averngo 
breadth,  and  is  about  equal  in  area  to  the  states  of  Mas- 
sachusetts  and  Connecticut.  It  is  separated  from  the 
main  land  by  the  Gulf  of  Georgia.  The  other  is  mucli 
smaller  and  is  farther  from  the  continent:  it  is  J 80 
long  and  about  30  in  average  breadth.  It  is  probably 
about  equal  in  surface  to  the  state  of  Connecticut. 
These  two  islands,  with  those  called  Prince  of  Wales' 
and  Sitcha  Island,  with  the  many  smaller  islands  around 
them,  have  been  termed  the  North  West  Archipelago. 

The  coasts  of  the  larger  islands,  like  that  of  Oregon, 
arc  indented  with  numerous  bays  and  gulfs,  and  fringed 
with  towering  forests.  The  ground  is  wholly  unculti- 
vated,  but  it  yields  spontaneously  an  abundance  of  ber- 
ries, onions,  and  other  roots.  The  chief  supplies  are  de- 
rived from  the  sea,  which  abounds  with  numerous  spe- 
cici  of  excellent  fish.  Each  tribe  inhabits  a  particular 
3* 


30 


DESCRIPTION    OF    OREGON,    &C. 


cove  or  island,  and  is  ruled  by  a  chief  who  maintains 
some  deg^rec  of  savage  pomp.  One  of  the  earlier  navi- 
gators found  a  chicff  occupying-  a  house,  consisting-  of 
one  large  apartment,  in  which  his  whole  household  of 
800  persons  sat,  ate  and  slept.  The  door-posts  and  the 
rafters  were  supported  by  gigantic  wooden  images, 
rudely  carved  and  painted,  and  the  whole  apartment 
was  studiously  adorned  with  festoons  of  human  skulls. 
The  chief's  family  occupied  a  raised  platform  at  one 
end,  on  which  were  placed  chests,  containing  their  most 
valuable  effects.  Their  repasts  consisted  of  enormous 
quantities  of  blubber,  fish-oil,  and  fish-soup. 


Man  and  Woman  of  Quadra  and  Vancouver's  Island. 

The  people  have  the  usual  Indian  features,  with  com- 
plexions tolerably  fair;  but  these  they  studiously  dis- 
figure by  stripes  of  red  ochre,  and  streams  of  fish-oil, 
mingled  sometimes  with  a  species  of  glittering  black 
sand.  Some  of  the  tribes  display  extreme  ferocity,  and 
there  is  too  much  reason  to  believe  that  they  are 
addicted  to  the  horrid  practice  of  cannibalism,  human 
heads  and  hands  being  both  displayed  as  trophies,  and 
offered  for  sale.  Yet,  when  a  friendly  intercourse  was 
once  established,  their  manners  were  found  peculiarly 
mild,  courteous,  and  engaging. 


^ 


mmmmm 


intains 
r  navi- 
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skulls. 

at  one 
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irvith  com- 
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they  are 
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phies,  and 
jourse  was 

peculiarly 


OEEGON  TERMTOEY. 


Oregon  is  the  name  usually  applied  to  that  part  of 
North  America  which  is  watered  chiefly  by  the  Colum- 
bia or  Oregon  river  and  its  branches.  Its  political  boun- 
daries have  not  as  yet  been  fixed  by  agreement  between 
the  parties  claiming  possession  of  it.  The  government 
of  the  United  States  considers  them  as  embracing  tlie 
whole  territory  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  from  the 
latitude  of  42  degrees  north  to  that  of  54  degrees  40 
minutes.  The  British  government  has,  however,  refused 
to  acknowledge  the  right  of  the  Americans  to  any  por- 
tion north  of  the  Columbia  river. 

This  territory  is  bounded  on  the  north  and  east  as  far 
south  as  the  49th  degree  of  latitude  by  British  America, 
and  southward  of  the  49th  degree  on  the  east  by  Mis- 
souri territory,  south  by  Mexico,  and  west  by  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  It  is  in  length  about  880  miles,  with  an  average 
breadth  of  550,  and  an  area  of  420,000  square  miles.  It 
is  divided  into  three  belts  or  sections  separated  by  ranges 
of  mountains  running  very  nearly  parallel  with  the 
shores  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  first  or  western  sec- 
tion lies  between  the  sea  and  the  Cascade  or  President's 
range.  The  second  or  middle  section  is  between  the 
Cascade  and  the  Blue  Mountains.  The  third  or  eastern 
section  is  between  the  Blue  and  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
These  sections  have  a  distthction  of  soil,  climate  and 
productions; 

The  first  or  Cascade  range  of  mountains  is  continuous 
through  the  whole  extent  of  Oregon,  at  a  distance  of 
from  80  to  140  miles  inland  ;  some  of  its  peaks  are  from 
12,000  to  14,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea ;  and  two 
of  them,  viz :  Mount  St.  Helens  and  Mount  Rainier,  are 
said  to  be  volcanoes.   They  are  all  several  thousand  feet 

(31) 


32 


OREGON   TERRITORY. 


iif 


above  the  line  of  perpetual  snow.  Tlie  Blue  Mountains, 
the  second  range,  are  irregular  in  their  course,  and  oc- 
casionally interrupted  by  wide  passes  or  gaps.  Their 
distance  from  the  coast  varies  trom  250  to  330  miles. 
Eastward  are  the  Rocky  Mountains,  whicli  form  the 
eastern  boundary  of  the  territory.  TJie  intervening 
valley  is  rocky,  broken  and  barren,  and  but  little  suited 
for  cultivation.  Timber  is  generally  scarce  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Columbia,  but  on  the  nortiiern  it  is  more 
plentiful.  In  its  most  elevated  districts  snow  covers  the 
ground  all  the  year.  It  rarely  rains  here,  and  no  dew 
falls.  There  is  a  great  difference  in  the  temperature 
between  the  days  and  nights,  especially  in  the  summer, 
when  the  thermometer  varies  from  30  to  50  degrees  in 
the  course  of  a  few  hours.  In  the  whole  of  this  section 
subsistence  is  difficult,  and  the  Indians  sometimes  die 
of  hunger. 

Tiie  country  westward  of  the  Blue  Mountains  consists 
for  the  most  part  of  a  light  sandy  loam  ;  in  the  valleys  a 
rich  alluvion,  and  barren  on  the  hills.  It  is  well  adapted 
for  cattle  and  horses,  as  grass,  either  green  or  dry,  may 
be  always  found.  Wood  is  also  scarce  in  this  section, 
except  at  some  distance  north  of  the  Columbia  river.  In 
the  coast  district  westward  of  the  Cascade  range,  (he  soil 
and  climate  are  well  suited  for  American  emigrants. 
The  valley  of  the  Willamette  is  the  finest  part  of  Oregon, 
and  is  said  to  improve  on  going  south  towards  California. 
Its  wheat  is  superior,  and  all  the  other  grains  raised  in 
the  United  States  grow  well,  except  corn,  the  growth  of 
which  is  somewhat  uncertain.  Potatoes  and  all  kinds 
of  culinary  vegetables  flourish.  It  is  also  well  wooded. 
Pine,  fir,  oak  of  different  kinds,  ash,  maple,  poplar,  &c., 
are  abundant. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  trees  of  this  region  is  a 
species  of  pine,  the  most  noble  of  its  genus,  and  proba- 
bly the  finest  specimen  of  American  vegetation.  It 
reaches  the  amazing  height  of  from  250  to  300  feet,  with 
a  trunk  25  to  50  feet  in  circumference.  Its  cones  are 
from  12  to  18  inches  long,  and  10  inches  in  circumfer- 


OKKGON    TKURITORV 


83 


encc  in  the  tliickest  part.    This  gigantic  timber  renders 
the  land  on  wfiich  it  grows  ditficiilt  to  clear. 

The  climate  liere  is  mild  throughout  the  year,  nei- 
ther presenting  tlic  severe  cold  of  winter  nor  heat  of 
summer.  The  mean  temperature  of  the  Willamette 
valley  is  about  54°  of  Fahrenheit.  The  winter  lasts 
from  December  until  February.  The  rains  begin  to 
fall  in  November  and  continue  till  March.  Snow  also 
falls,  but  seldom  lies  longer  than  a  few  days.  The 
nights  are  cool,  and  affect  Indian-corn  so  far  that  it 
will  not  ripen.  Fruit  trees  blossom  early  in  April  at 
Vancouver  and  Nisqually,  at  which  latter  place  peas 
were  a  foot  high  early  In  May,  strawberries  were  in  full 
blossom,  and  salad  had  gone  to  seed.    . 

In  Oregon,  as  well  as  in  all  the  other  regions  over 
which  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  extend  their  opera- 
tions, wild  animals  are  becoming  scarce.  The  buffalo 
was  once  found  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  Columbia, 
but  it  is  now  extinct  in  that  quarter.  The  sea  otter,  so 
valuable  for  its  fur,  was  found  not  long  since  on  the 
Columbia  river,  but  now  it  is  said  that  none  are  to  be 
seen. 

Bears  of  three  differ- 
ent varieties  are  found  in 
Oregon,  viz :  the  grizzly, 
brown  and  black.  The 
first  is  a  most  formida- 
ble animal ;  its  strength 
and  ferocity  are  such 
that  the  hunters  use  the 
utmost  precaution  in  at- 
tacking  it.  When  adult 
it  is  reported  to  attain 
sometimes  a  weight  of 


IMdck  Bear. 

800  pounds,  and  its  strength  is  in  proportion.  The  cubs 
of  the  grizzly  bear  can  climb  trees,  but  when  full-grown 
cannot  do  so.  The  hunter  may  thus  escape,  but  the  in- 
furiated animal  will  sometimes  keep  watch  below  and 
confine  its  enemy  for    many  hours.     The   black   and 


34 


OREGON    TERRITORY. 


brown  bear  arc  not  so  ferocious ;  they  are  nearly  of  the 
same  size,  but  are  only  about  half  the  weight  of  the 
grizzly  bear;  they  arc  nearly  similar  in  habits;  the 
former  lives  more  upon  vegetable  food,  and  is  much 
esteemed  by  the  hunters  for  its  pure,  black,  well-coated 
skin. 


Elk, 

The  elk  is  sometimes  met  in  Oregon,  but  is  not  so 
plentiful  as  on  the  cast  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
Peer  of  three  different  species  abound,  the  red,  the  black- 
tailed,  and  the  common  American  kind.  The  deer  west 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains  are  more  lean,  and  the  flesh  is 
less  inviting,  than  those  on  the  other  side.  The  prong- 
horned  antelope  is  peculiar  to  Oregon,  and  is  found  on 
the  plains  of  the  Columbia.  It  frequents  open  prairies 
and  low  hills  interspersed  with  clumps  of  wood ;  but  it 
is  not  met  with  in  any  of  the  thickly  wooded  districts. 
Tht  horns  from  which  the  animal  derives  its  name  are 
singular.  They  have  an  anterior  branch  and  a  prolonged 
posterior  point  turned  down  into  a  hook.  These  animals 
are  exceedingly  swift,  and  live  in  small  families. 

The  Big  Horn  or  Rocky  Mountain  sheep  and  Rocky 

Mountain  goat,  are  animals  peculiar  to  the  western 

continent.     They  are   found   chiefly  among  the  loHy 

i  tuountains,  from  which  they  derive  their  name,  and  se- 


OREGON    TKKIirrORY. 


35 


' 


lect  the  most  rugged  and  precipitous  spots  where  grass 
can  be  had.  The  habitat  of  these  animals  amon^r  the 
Rocky  Mountains  is  believed  to  range  from  latitude 
40'^  northward  for  nearly  1800  miles,  and  reaching 
from  California  nearly  to  the  Arctic  Ocean.  The  flesh 
of  both  these  animals  is  highly  prized  by  the  hunters 
as  food.  The  Big  Horn  is  also  found  in  the  Sierra 
Nevada  of  California  and  in  the  Cascade  range  of  Ore- 
gon.  Some  of  the  other  animals  found  in  Oregon  are 
the  panther,  the  tiger-cat  and  the  lynx.  The  panther  is 
but  rarely  seen  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  It  is 
equally  ferocious  and  similar  in  its  habits  with  the  same 
species  found  in  other  parts  of  America.  There  are  also 
wolves  of  five  and  foxes  of  three  different  kinds,  besides 
the  beaver,  the  raccoon,  martin,  marmot,  &c. 


■tV;'vW 


€ft^^-^ 


White  Traders  and  In 

The  Oregon  Indians 
savage  than  those  on 
Mountains.  They  are 
friendly  relations  with 
not  averse  to  the  habits 
pie.  The  tribes  found 
Chickalees,  Kilamukcp, 


dians  bartering  with  each  other. 

are  said  to  be  less  warlike  and 
the  eastern  side  of  the  Rocky 
disposed  generally  to  cultivate 
the  American  settlers,  and  are 
and  pursuits  of  a  civilized  peo- 
along  the  coast  are  the  Clalams, 
Chinnooks,  Cowlitzes,  Umpquas, 


8(5 


OULtJON    TLKKITOIIV. 


and  some  otlicrs.  Kxccj)t  a  ffvv  individuals  living  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  American  settlements  and  the  JJrilish 
posts,  who  iiave  begun  to  cultivate  the  ground  to  a  small 
extent  and  to  raise  cattle,  tliosc  tri[)es  derive  their  sub- 
sistence chiuHy  from  hunting  and  li.-^hing;  the  latter 
they  practise  with  son\e  dexterity  ;  their  boats  are  form- 
ed out  of  a  single  tree,  and  are  from  1'2  to  .'K)  feet  in 
length.  Their  wealth  is  estimated  by  tlie  number  of 
their  wives,  slaves  and  canoes.  The  skins  and  furs 
which  they  collect  are  exchanged  with  the  traders  for 
guns,  copper  kettles,  knives,  tobacco,  and  other  articles, 
besides  blue  and  wliite  beads. 

These  tribes,  however  rude,  studiously  seek  to  embel- 
lish their  persons,  but  in  a  most  fantastic  and  preposter- 
ous maimer,  by  keeping  the  forehead  compressed  in 
infancy  with  boards  and  bandages,  whicli  cauocs  a 
straight  line  to  run  from  the  crown  of  the  iiead  to  the 
top  of  the  nose.  With  this  form,  and  with  a  thick  coat- 
ing of  grease,  a  young  female  becomes  one  of  the  most 
I  hideous  objects  in  existence.  Yet  when  adorned  with 
i\  bear's  claws,  copper  bracelets,  and  white  and  blue  beads, 
]     she  is  regarded  as  an  object  of  especial  attraction. 

East  of  the  Cascade  range  arc  the  Wallawallas,  Nez- 

perces,  Flatheads,  Cayuses,  Kootanies,  &c.     These  all 

resemble  each  other  closely  in  language,  customs  and 

character,  and   are   but  remotely  connected   with   the 

lower  tribes.    Their  chief  employment  is  taking  salmon 

.  and  hunting.  The  latter  is,  however,  a  limited  resource, 

1  buffalo  being  no  longer  found  on  the  plains  of  the  Co- 

J  lumbia.     They  have  horses  in  abundance,  and  are  good 

i  riders,  both  men  and  women.     The  name  of  Flatheads 

'  has  been  given  to  all  the  upper  tribes,  but  the  custom 

llrom  which  it  is  derived  is  practised  far  more  exten- 

Jsively  among  those  on  the  coast.     Immediately  after 

'"fl  birth  a  bandage  is  fixed  to  the  head  of  the  infant,  where 

it  is  kept  about  a  year,  and  has  the  effect  to  flatten  the 

J^head  permanently.     This  practice  is  universal  among 

jpthe  lower  tribes,  but  above  the  falls  is  restricted  to  the 

'  emales,  and  even  with  the  latter  is  now  much  less  com- 

non  than  formerly. 


i 


ORE(JON    TERRITORY. 


37 


. 


Tlie  ^reat  soutlicrn  ])l;iin  is  inliabiUd  by  tlio  Shosho- 
iiees  or  Snakes,  J3oonucks,  Alc,  wlio  arc  entirely  difFor- 
cnt  from  the  other  tribes  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountaing, 
and  appear  to  liave  emigrated  from  the  valley  of  the 
Mississippi.  The  Siiosiionees,  when  destitute  of  salmon  or 
other  fisli,  subsist  on  the  various  roots  which  they  obtain 
by  digging",  and  are  hence  called  Diggers,  'I'he  Indians, 
both  of  Upper  and  Lower  Oregon,  have  greatly  decreased 
in  numbers  since  Lewis  and  Clarke's  time,  and  some 
tribes  have  become  entirely  extinct.  In  the  year  1829, 
whole  villages  were  depopulated  by  the  fever  and  ague, 
which  appears  to  have  been  much  more  fatal  than  among 
the  whites,  and  was  rendered  still  more  so  by  the  un- 
skilful manner  in  which  the  Indians  treated  the  dis- 
ease. 


Missionary  preaching  to  the  Indians. 

Among  the  Indians  of  this  region  missionaries  of 
various  Christian  sects  have  long  been  labouring  with 
assiduity,  though  it  is  believed  as  yet  with  but  doubtful 
success.  The  Roman  Catholics  have  made  the  greatest 
number  of  converts,  if  the  reception  of  baptism  be  as- 
sumed as  the  test  of  conversion,  whole  tribes  submitting 
at  once  on  the  first  summons  to  the  rite.  The  Metliodists 
4 


38 


OREGON    TERKITORY. 


W    I: 


IS 

u 


and  Presbyterians  employ  themselves  chiefly  in  impart- 
ing a  knowledge  of  the  simplest  and  most  useful  arts, 
and  have  thus  induced  some  of  tiie  natives  to  engage  in 
agricultural  pursuits.  The  last  mentioned  missionaries 
also  endeavour  to  convey  religious  instruction  to  them 
through  the  medium  of  their  own  languages,  into  which 
books  have  been  translated  and  printed  in  the  country. 

The  civilized  inhabitants  of  Oregon  consist  of  citizens 
of  the  United  States  and  the  servants  of  the  H«idson*s 
Bay  Company.  The  latter  body  enjoys  by  special  grant 
from  the  British  government  the  use  of  all  the  territories 
claimed  by  Great  Britain  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
as  well  as  the  protection  of  British  laws  in  virtue  of  an 
act  of  Parliament;  whilst  the  citizens  of  the  United 
States,  though  now  outnumbering  the  others  in  the  pro- 
portion of  eight  or  ten  to  one,  remain  independent  of  all 
extended  authority  and  jurisdiction  whatever.  They  are 
not  subject  to  British  laws,  and  are  under  no  control, 
except  the  temporary  regulations  into  which  they  have 
cntercu  for  the  sake  of  local  order. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  territory,  a  country  twice  the 
extent  of  France,  do  not  probably  exceed  50,000  in  num- 
ber, of  whi  h  40,000  may  be  Indians,  8,000  or  10,000 
Americans,  and  1,000  or  1,200  servants  of  the  Hudson*s 
Bay  Company.  The  American  is  the  only  part  of  the 
population  that  is  gaining  ground,  eve-y  succeeding 
year  adding  to  its  numbers.  Any  increase  of  the  Com- 
pany's people  is  not  likely  to  take  place,  as  their  busi- 
ness is  about  stationary,  and  has  been  so  for  some  years 
past.  The  Indians,  as  in  all  other  parts  of  America,  are 
annually  becoming  smaller  and  smaller  in  number.  The 
American  citizens  in  Oregon  some  time  since  organii^ed 
a  provisional  government  and  legislature,  established  a 
court,  appointed  judges  and  magistrates,  and  have  pass- 
ed  various  salutary  enactments.  Among  the  latter  is 
one  prohibiting  the  manufacturing,  importing  or  sciiing 
spirituous  liquors  of  any  kind,  and  providing  for  the 
seizure  and  destruction  of  distillery  apparatus,  6lc.  By 
another  act  it  is  provided  that  negro  slavery  shall  not 


OREGON   TERRITORY. 


39 


be  permitted  to  exist  in  Oregon,  and  that  the  owners 
of  slaves  who  may  bringr  them  into  the  country  shall  be 
allowed  two  years  to  remove  them,  and  in  default  the 
slaves  to  be  free.  The  act  also  prohibits  free  negroes  or 
mulattoes  from  settling  or  remaining  in  the  courtry, 
and  requires  them  to  leave  it  in  two  years. 

The  principal  American  settlement  is  Oregon  City. 
It  is  on  the  Willamette  or  Multnomah  river,  at  the  head 
of  navigation ;  and  at  the  foot  of  the  falls,  one  of  the 
finest  water-powers  in  the  world.  It  contains  from  200 
to  300  inhabitants,  several  stores,  machine  shops,  saw 
and  grist-mills,  schools,  &c.  It  is  situated  about  20 
miles  south  of  Fort  Vancouver,  30  miles  from  the  Co- 
lumbia river  by  the  Willamette,  and  over  100  from 
Astoria,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  From  the 
nearest  part  of  the  coast  it  is  distant  in  a  direct  line 
about  65  miles.  The  American  emigrants  are  nearly 
all  settled  in  the  vicinity,  and  in  the  valley  of  the  Wil- 
lamette. 

The  establishments  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
are  called  forts,  but  they  are  more  properly  trading, 
houses,  and  are  all  fortified  sufficiently  to  repel  a  sudden 
attack.  With  the  exception  of  Fort  Vancouver  they  are 
mostly  small  establishments,  containing  sometimes  only 
half  a  dozen  individuals.  They  are  the  depositaries  of 
the  goods  used  in  the  Indian  trade,  and  of  the  furs  and 
peltries  obtained  in  barter  from  the  natives.  Vancouver, 
the  largest  of  these  forts,  is  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
Columbia  river,  120  miles  from  its  mouth  ;  it  is  a  square 
picketed  enclosure,  conta*  .ing  the  rcaidences  of  the 
factors,  clerks,  &c.,  of  the  establishment,  besides  various 
stores  and  work-shops.  Near  the  fort  are  the  hospital 
and  the  dwellings  of  the  people  attached  to  it.  In  the 
vicinity  are  an  orchard,  garden,  and  a  farm  of  600 
acres.  Two  miles  lower  down  the  river  are  the  dairy 
and  piggeries,  witli  numerous  herds  oi'  cattle  and  hogb. 
Three  miles  above  the  fort  are  the  water-mills  for  grind- 
:ng  grain  and  sawing  lumber.  The  people  attached  to 
the  establishment  number  about  700 ;  one-half  are  In- 


10 


OREGON    TliRRITOKY. 


dians ;  the  remainder  consists  of  British,  Canadians,,  and 
lialf-brecds.  From  Vancouver  a  direct  trade  is  carried 
on  with  Great  Britain  and  also  with  tlie  Sandwich 
Islands,  which  employs  several  vessels.  A  small  steam- 
boat plies  on  the  Columbia  river  and  along  the  coast 
between  the  different  trading  posts.  The  exports  to 
Britain  are  furs  and  peltries,  and  to  the  Sandwich  Islands 
wheat,  lumber,  salmon,  &,c. 

Nearly  ail  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  establish- 
ments are  on  the  Columbia  and  Frazer's  Rivers  and 
their  tributaries ;  three  are  on  the  sea  coast,  and  one  is 
on  the  Umpqua,  a  few  miles  above  its  moath.  Fort 
George,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  stands  on  the 
site  of  Astoria,  but  it  is  now  a  place  of  no  moment  or 
account. 

The  coast  of  Oregon  was  first  explored  by  the  Spa^ 
niards,  who,  however,  did  not  penetrate  into  the  interior. 
In  1792,  captain  Gray  of  Boston  discovered  and  entered 
the  Columbia,  and  named  it  after  his  ship.  He  was  the 
first  who  established  the  fact  of  the  existence  of  this 
great  river ;  and  this  gives  to  the  United  States  the  title 
to  the  regions  drained  by  its  waters,  from  right  of  dis- 
covery. In  1803-4-5,  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clarke  were 
sent  out  by  the  United  States'  government  for  the  pur- 
pose of  exploring  this  country.  They  navigated  the 
Missouri  river  to  its  source,  and,  crossing  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  descended  the  Columbia  to  the  Pacific  Ocean. 
They  spent  the  winter  on  its  shores.  In  the  following 
spring,  they  returned  by  the  same  river  to  the  moun- 
tains, and  thence,  down  the  Missouri,  home.  This  explo- 
ration of  the  chief  river,  the  first  ever  made,  constitutes 
another  ground  of  claim  of  the  American  people  to 
Oregon.  They  have  also  strong  claims  by  the  Louisiana 
treaty  of  1803  with  France,  and  by  the  treaty  of  1819, 
by  which  Spain  relinquished  all  her  rights  on  the  Pacific 
north  of  lat.  42°,  and  w^hich  is  considered  to  have  ex- 
tended as  far  north  as  lat.  60°.  In  the  year  1824,  by  a 
convention  with  Russia,  it  was  agreed  that  the  United 
States  should   make  no  establishments  on  the  consta 


OREGON    TERRITORY. 


41 


1 


north  of  iat.  5i^  40",  and  that  the  Russians  should 
make  none  south  of  the  same  line.  This  constitutes  the 
right  by  which  the  American  government  claims  that 
particular  boundary. 

To  the  territory  of  Oregon,  therefore,  the  United 
States  have  acquired  a  very  strong  title  by  the  discovery 
of  the  principal  river,  and  by  Interior  exploration,  as 
well  as  by  treaties  with  foreign  powers.  It  is,  however, 
contested  by  Great  Britain,  who  claims,  not  that  the  title 
is  in  her,  but  that  the  region  is  unappropriated  and  open 
to  the  first  comer.  She  also  contends  that  Mr.  Macken- 
zie, a  British  subject  in  1793,  was  the  first  white  man 
who  explored  any  portion  of  Oregon  by  land ;  that 
Heceta,  a  Spanish  navigator,  and  not  captain  Gray, 
discovered  the  Columbia  river  ;  that  the  exploration  and 
surveys  of  Cook  and  Vancouver  give  a  better  title  to 
those  parts  of  the  North  ^V  est  Coast  in  question  than 
the  claim  founded  on  Gray's  discovery  of  the  Columbia  ; 
that  Spain,  in  1790,  relinquished  part  of  her  rights  on 
the  N.  VV.  coast  to  her ;  tiiat  Louisiana,  as  claimed  by 
France,  extended  no  further  westward  than  the  Rocky 
Mountains;  and  tiiat  the  arrangement  with  Russia  in 
1824  was  neutralized  by  a  convention  in  1825,  in  which 
the  same  parallel  of  latitude  (54*^  40')  was  agreed  on  as 
the  boundary  of  the  Russian  and  British  possessions  in 
that  quarter. 

By  a,  convention  concluded  in  1818,  to  last  twelve 
yJ^5r ;.  it  was  agreed  between  the  United  States  and 
i^-eil  Britain,  that  neither  government  should  take 
pos:;:v  .-.jon  of  it,  or  occupy  it,  to  the  exclusion  of  the 
other,  viuring  the  period  of  the  conveiijon,  which  either 
party  might  renounce  upon  giving  twelve  months'  no- 
tice. This  convention  was  renewed  indefinitely  in  1827, 
or  to  cease  at  tlie  option  of  tlie  contracting  parties. 

In  Apiil,  1846,  a  joint  resolution  passed  the  Congress 

of  the  United  States  in  the  w^ords  following,  viz:   Re- 

loived,  that  the  President  of  the  United  States  be,  and 

n  is  hereby,  authorized  at  his  discretion  to  give  to  the 

British  government  the  notice  required  by  its  second 
4» 


42 


OREGON    TKRRITORY. 


article  for  the  abrogation  of  the  said  convention  of  the 
6thof  August,  1827. 

Although  the  United  States  have  this  strong  claim 
to  the  whole  region  of  Oregon,  from  N.  lat.  42^  to  54'^ 
40',  yet  the  government  has  several  times  proposed, 
from  motives  of  accommodation,  to  adopt  the  forty -ninth 
parallel  of  latitude  as  the  dividing  line,  with  the  free 
navigation  of  the  Columbia  river  to  the  people  of  both 
nations,  with  the  exception  that  in  the  last  proposition 
(that  was  made  by  President  Polk),  the  use  of  the  Co- 
lumbia river  south  of  the  parallel  of  49°  to  British  sub- 
jects, is  rescinded,  and  in  lieu  thereof,  it  is  agreed  that 
Great  Britain  shall  h.  o  any  port  or  ports  on  the  coast 
of  Quadra  and  Vancouv  dand,  south  of  lat.  49^,  she 
may  choose.  By  this  ari  gement,  the  United  States 
would  relinquish  a  territory  of  about  160,000  square 
miles,  being  nearly  equal  in  extent  to  the  whole  of  the 
New  England  and  Middle  States  united.  Tlie  British 
have,  however,  constantly  refused  to  assent  to  any  ar- 
rangement which  should  deprive  them  of  the  coast  and 
territories  north  of  the  Columbia  river.  They  propose  in 
return  the  adoption  of  the  49th  parallel  of  latitude  west- 
ward from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  to  the  nearest  waters 
of  the  Columbia  (M'Gillivray*s  river) :  thence  down 
stream  to  the  ocean,  the  navigation  to  be  free  to  the 
people  of  both  nations.  In  addition,  they  offer  to  cede 
a  small  district,  nearly  equal  in  extent  to  the  State  of 
Connecticut,  bounded  by  the  Pacific,  the  straits  of  San 
Juan  de  Fuca,  Hood^s  canal  and  Bulfinch^s  or  Gray^s 
harbour,  having  Cape  Flattery  for  its  north-westernmost 
point.  This  scheme  would  divide  Oregon  into  two  very 
nearly  equal  districts ;  each  power  would  receive  about 
210,000  square  miles  of  territory. 

Several  attempts  were  made,  by  different  individuals 
from  the  United  States,  to  settle  in  this  territory.  In 
1808,  the  Missouri  Fur  Company  established  a  trading- 
house  on  Lewises  river,  the  first  ever  formed  on  any  of 
the  waters  of  the  Columbia.  In  1810,  the  Pacific  Fur 
Company,  under  John  J.  Astor,  of  New  York,  was  form- 


C(] 

of 
til 
to 

Ol 

at 
i\ 

t 
C 

y 

b 


OREGON    TERRITORY. 


42 


he 


Lh 


ed ;  and  in  1811,  Astoria  was  established  at  the  mouth 
of  Colunibia  river.  In  consequence  of  the  exposure  of 
this  post,  by  the  last  war  with  Great  Britain,  it  was  sold 
to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company ;  but  was  restored  to  its 
original  proprietors,  by  order  of  the  British  government, 
at  the  close  of  the  war,  agreeably  to  the  first  articles  of 
the  treaty  of  Ghent. 

The  first  emigration  from  the  settled  portions  of  the 
United  States  for  the  purpose  of  occupying  any  part  of 
Oregon  territory  was  made  in  the  year  1832.  For  some 
years  afterwards  the  number  of  emigrants  was  limited  ; 
but  a  better  acquaintance  with  the  route  and  the  proper 
mode  of  travelling  has  greatly  increased  the  desire  to 
settle  on  the  shores  of  the  Pacific.  In  1843,  not  less 
than  1000  individuals  emigrated  to  Oregon.  In  the 
following  year  the  number  was  still  greater;  and  in 
1845,  there  passed  Fort  Laramie  for  the  Willamette  850 
men,  475  women,  and  1000  children,  driving  with  them 
about  7000  head  of  cattle,  400  horses  and  mules,  and 
460  wagons. 

All  the  travelling  which  has  yet  taken  place  between 
Oregon,  California  and  the  United  States,  has  been  by 
land.  None  of  the  rivers  which  flow  from  the  Rocky 
Mountains  eastward  across  the  prairies  present  any 
favourable  facilities  for  navigation ;  and  the  same  may 
be  said  of  the  Columbia  river  and  its  branches,  except 
on  the  lower  part  of  its  course  from  Wallawalla  down- 
wards. Emigrants  with  families  generally  leave  West- 
ern Missouri  early  in  April.  They  should  be  provided 
with  strong  well-made  light  wagons,  with  young  ser- 
viceable oxen,  and  ought  to  unite  in  companies  of  from 
20  to  50  wagons,  well  armed,  and  keeping  a  strict  watch 
after  dark  so  as  not  to  be  surprised  by  the  Indians.  On 
encamping  at  night  it  is  usual  to  form  either  a  circle  or 
square  with  the  wagons  by  bringing  them  close  toge- 
ther, and  running  the  tongue  of  each  wagon  between 
the  hind  wheel  and  bed  of  the  one  before,  alternately 
chaining  them  together,  and  thus  forming  a  secure 
breastwork.     Wood  for  fires,  and  drinkable  water,  arc 


44 


OREGON    TERRITORY. 


not  to  be  procured  in  some  i)laccs  on  the  Oregon  route. 
It  is  therefore  necessary  to  carry  a  supply  of  the  latter 
in  kegs  kept  for  the  purpose  on  those  parts  of  the  road 
known  to  be  deficient  in  that  indispensable  article.  This 
seldom  occurs  for  a  distance  of  more  thon  20  miles  at  a 
time. 

Where  fire-wood  cannot  be  obtained,  buffalo  dung 
aifords  a  substitute,  and  can  generally  be  met  with. 
Hunting  the  buffalo  or  other  game  should  not  be  de- 
pended on  to  any  extent  for  a  supply  of  food.  This 
would  retard  the  progress  of  the  journey  materially, 
and  cannot  be  relied  on  with  certainty.  Emigrants 
should  take  a  good  supply  of  flour  and  bacon,  with  tea, 
coffee,  sugar,  salt,  and  such  other  necessaries  as  they  have 
convenient  carriage  for,  besides  clothing,  boots,  shoes, 
ammunition,  &c.,  sufficient  to  last  them  through  the 
journey.  Those  who  have  the  means  will  find  it  advan- 
tageous to  take  such  articles  for  barter  with  the  Indians 
as  they  are  known  to  prefer;  cotton  handkerchiefs, 
cheap  red  ribbons,  moccasin  awls,  small  beads  of  dif- 
ferent colours,  &c.,  will  answer  the  purpose. 

The  town  of  Independence  in  the  State  of  Missouri, 
near  the  mouth  of  Kansas  river,  is  the  usual  starting 
point  for  a  journey  to  Oregon  and  California,  as  well  as 
to  Santa  Fe  in  New  Mexico.  The  route  to  Oregon  ex- 
tends about  40  miles  from  Independence  along  the  Santa 
Fe  trace,  thence  in  a  north-w^est  direction  to  the  Kansas 
river.  On  crossing  that  stream,  nearly  the  same  direc- 
tion is  pursued  until  reaching  the  banks  of  the  Platte  or 
Nebraska;  thence  to  the  Forks,  and  along  the  south 
Fork  of  that  river  to  the  crossing-place,  it  is  nearly  west ; 
then  north-west  to  the  North  Fork,  up  the  latter  to  Fort 
Laramie,  west  by  north.  This  fort  is  a  fur-trading  post, 
at  the  junction  of  the  North  Fork  of  Platte  and  Laramie 
creek,  and  near  the  entrance  of  the  Black  Hills.  It  is 
in  the  Sioux  country,  about  700  miles  from  Indepen- 
dence, and  double  that  distance  from  Oregon  City. 

From  Fort  Laramie  the  Oregon  route  is  north-west  to 
Rock  Independence,  en  the  Sweetwater  branch  of  North 


OREGON    TERRITOUV. 


45 


Platte ;  then  due- west  to  the  South  Pass  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  This  point  is  1000  miles  from  Indepen- 
dence, and  rather  more  than  half-way  to  the  Columbia 
river  at  Wallawalla.  From  the  Kansas  river  and  alon^ 
the  Platte  to  the  crossings  of  the  Soutli  Fork,  the  road 
is  mostly  through  the  Pawnee  country  ;  thence  to  the 
mountains  the  Sioux  will  be  met  with;  buffalo,  deer, 
&c.,  in  many  parts  plentiful,  and  the  Indians  will  be 
seen  from  time  to  time  in  pursuit  of  game. 


Indians  Hunting  Buffalo. 


From  the  Missouri  river  to  the  vicmity  of  Fort  Lara- 
mie the  soil  affords  tolerable  grazing  for  cattle  and 
iiorses ;  but  froin  the  latter  point  to  the  South  Pass,  a 
distance  of  nearly  300  miles,  the  country  is  a  desert, 
almost  witiiout  grass,  and  producing  little  else  than  the 
wild  sage  and  a  species  of  the  cactus  or  prickly  pear. 

The  streams  immediately  westward  of  the  South  Pass 
are  all  tributary  to  the  Colorado  or  Red  River  of  the 
west,  which  discharges  its  waters  into  thp  Gulf  of  Cali- 
fornia. Farther  west  is  the  Bear  River,  the  chief  feeder  of 
the  Great  Salt  Lake.  The  latter  lies  embosomed  among 
lofty  mountains,  about  70  or  80  miles  westward  of  the 
emigrant  route.     On  leaving  the  South  Pass,  the  tra- 


46 


OREGON   TERRITORY. 


vellcr  pursues  a  south-west  direction  to  the  Green  river, 
tlie  head  branch  of  the  Colorado ;  then  up  Ham  and 
Black^s  Forks  to  Bridget's  Fort,  a  fur-trading  post ; 
thence  to  Bear  river.  This  stream  he  follows  nearly 
northwards  to  the  Beer  or  Soda  Springs ;  and  thence  to 
the  valley  of  the  Portneuf,  down  which  he  makes  his 
way  to  Fort  Hall,  a  trading-post  of  the  Hudson's  Bay^ 
Conipany,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Snake  or  Lewis  river 
and  the  Portneuf. 

The  route  to  Fort  Hall  presents  comparatively  few 
diiliculties,  and  is  traversed  every  summer  by  hundreds 
of  wagons.  The  remainder  of  the  journey  is  attended 
with  many  inconveniences,  some  arising  from  the  na- 
ture of  the  ground,  which  may  however  be  lessened  or 
removed  by  the  application  of  labour  at  certain  points  ; 
and  others  from  the  want  of  water  and  grass  for  cattle. 
Travellers  with  wagons  generally  follow  the  Snake  or 
Lbwis  river  from  Fort  Hall  to  the  crossings  about  190 
miles  lower  down,  and  thence  go  northward  to  the  upper 
part  of  the  Boise  or  Reed's  river,  through  the  valley  of 
which  they  regain  the  Snake  river ;  thence  pass  over 
the  country  through  the  beautiful  valley  called  the 
Grand  Ronde  to  the  confluence  of  the  Wallawalla  with 
the  main  Columbia,  almost  550  miles  from  Fort  Hall. 
Those  on  foot  or  on  horseback  find  more  direct  lines  of 
communication  between  those  two  places. 

Below  the  Wallawalla,  the  obstacles  to  the  passage 
of  wheel-carriages  arc  at  present  such  as  to  preclude 
the  use  of  them  almost  entirely ;  and  the  numerous 
rapids  and  whirlpools  in  the  Columbia  render  the  voy- 
age down  to  the  Falls  of  that  river  exceedingly  danger- 
ous. Near  the  termination  of  the  Cascades  or  lower 
falls  is  Fort  Vancouver,  distant  about  250  miles  from 
Wallawalla,  and  125  from  the  Pacific.  Six  miles  below 
Vancouver  is  the  mouth  of  the  Willamette,  in  the  valley 
of  which  river  the  American  settlements  are  mostly 
situated.  Oregon  City,  the  principal  settlement,  is  at 
the  falls  of  Willamette,  and  about  18  miles  distant  from 
Vancouver,  90  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia, 


OREGON   TERRITORY. 


47 


and  2171  miles  from  Independence  by  the  travelled 
route,  as  may  be  seen  from  the  following  itinerary.  The 
journey  will  last,  according  to  circumstances,  from  130 
to  150  days  ;  but  small  unencumbered  parties  on  horse- 
back may  accomplish  it  probably  in  about  a  month  less 
time. 

Oregon  City  is  in  latitude  45°  20',  nearly  or  about 
the  same  parallel  as  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  the  City 
of  Montreal,  and  St.  Johns  in  New  Brunswick.  Its 
longitude  is  about  45°  45'  west  of  Washington,  making 
a  difference  of  3  hours  and  3  minutes  in  time ;  so  that 
when  it  is  12  o'clock  mer.  in  Washington,  it  will  want 
3  minutes  to  9  A.  M.  in  Oregon  City. 


or 


Emigrant  Route  to  Oregon^  with  the  distances  in  miles 
and  the  courses  pursued. 

From  Independence  to  the  crossings  of  Kansas  river, 

„  S.  VV.  VV.&N.  W.  102 

To  Platte  River, N.W.  2i6  828 

Forks  of  Platte, W   N.  W.   130  458 

Crossings  of  the  South  Fork,      -       -       -       -             W.    75  533 

North  Fork. N.  W.    20  653 

Scoti's  Bluff, W.  N.  VV.      75  628 

Fori  Laramie, W.  N- W.      82  710 

Rock  Independence,           -       -        N.  \V.  W.  &  S.  VV.  188  898 

South  Paw, VV.  102  1000 

Green  River, S.  W.    70  1070 

Bridger's  Fort, S.  &  S.  VV.    59  1129 

Bear  River, N.  VV.  68  1197 

Beer  or  Soda  Springs,         -       -       -       -          N.  N.  VV.  92  1289 

Fort  Hall, N.  VV.  61  1350 

Fishing  or  Salmon  Falls,           -       -       -     S.  W.  &  VV.  iso  1500 

Crossings  of  Lewis  River,          .       .       .       _        M.  VV.    35  1535 

Do.         Bosiee    do. N.  W.    70  1605 

Fort  Bosiee, VV.  N.  VV.    45  1850 

Malheur  River, N.  W.  VV.    22  1672 

Burnt        do. N.    52  1724 

Grande  Roude  or  G'eat  Circle,         -       -          N.  N.  VV.    64  1788 

Dr.  Whitman's, N.  W.    80  1868 

Fort  Wezperce  or  Wallawalla,         -       -          VV.  N.  VV.    25  1893 

Dalles  of  the  Columbia, W.S.  VV.  158  2051 

Cascades.           N.  W.  &  W.    88  2087 

Fort  Vancouver,        -       -               -       -          VV.  W.  VV.    54  2141 

Oregon  City, S.    30  2171 


UPPEK  OR  NEW  CALIFORNIA. 


Upier  or  New  California  comprehends  that  part  of 
North  America  which  lies  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountain 
chain  (called  here  the  Anahuac  Mountains),  and  extend- 
ing from  north  to  south  from  latitude  42°  to  latitude 
32°  nortli.  Witliin  these  limits  it  includes  the  territory 
discovered  by  Sir  Francis  Drake,  almost  three  centuries 
ago,  and  called  by  him  New  Albion.  On  the  north  it 
is  bounded  by  Oregon,  south  by  Old  California  and 
Sonora,  west  by  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  east  partly  by 
the  United  States,  and  partly  by  the  territory  of  New 
Mexico.  In  dimensions  it  is  almost  equal  to  Oregon, 
being  in  extent  from  north  to  south  about  700,  and  from 
east  to  west  from  600  to  800  miles,  and  having  an  area 
of  about  400,000  square  miles. 

Upper,  or  in  Spanish  phrase,  Alta  California,  has  long 
formed  the  north-western  province  of  Mexico ;  but  at 
length,  after  several  domestic  disturbances,  the  people 
have  declared  themselves  independent  of  that  power,  and 
will,  most  probably,  be  for  ever  separated  from  it.  The 
natives  dislike  the  Mexicans ;  and  that  circumstance 
has  given  rise  to  sundry  revolutions  in  their  govern- 
ment.  They  must  now  take  measures  to  become  con- 
solidated into  an  independent  state,  or  be  the  subjects 
of  some  foreign  power.  Immigration  will  assist  the 
former,  while  the  attractions  of  its  magnificent  harbour 
of  San  Francisco  may,  in  a  very  few  years,  effect  the 
latter. 

Our  knowledge  of  the  geography  of  this  part  of  the 
Western  Continent  is  still  limited,  and  a  large  portion 
of  it  is  unknown.  The  late  expedition  of  Captain  Fre- 
mont, U.  S.  Top.'En.,  has  given  a  more  exact  view  of 
the  interior  than  has  yet  been  presented.  He  has  de- 
termined the  position  and  figure  of  its  noted  Salt  Lake, 

(48) 


iroil*Ni;\V    CALIl'ORXIA. 


49 


A. 


art  of 
untaiii 
)xlend- 
Lititudo 
rritory 
nturies 
orth  it 
la  and 
rtly  by 
tf  New 
)regon, 
id  IVoni 
in  area 

Q.S  long 
but  at 
people 
er,  and 
The 
1  stance 
rover n- 
le  con- 
ubjects 
;ist  the 
larbour 
ect  the 

of  the 
portion 
in  Fre- 
riew  of 
has  de  • 
t  Lake, 
B) 


indicated  tlie  probnhlc  boundary  and  extent  of  its  great 
interior  desert,  c.xploreil  its  chief  mountains,  and  ex- 
}iibitcd  the  character  and  coiidition  of  some  of  its  inte- 
rior tribes  witli  more  apparent  truthfulness  than  any 
other  traveller.  His  tour,  wliich  occupied  17  months 
of  time,  viz.,  from  the  month  of^  Maj',  1843,  until  Au- 
gust, 1844,  and  extended  up\vards  of  (3400  miles,  more 
than  a  tliird  of  wJiich  was  in  (>alitbrnia,  is  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  and  interesting  that  Jias  yet  been  per- 
formed in  America, 

A  considerable  portion  of  California  is  reported  io  be 
a  desert,  and  unsuitable  for  cultivation  ;  but  the  district 
which  extends  aiong^  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  as  far 
inland  as  the  Sierra  Nevada,  is  known  to  be  well  .calcu- 
Jated  for  settlement,  and  will  doubtless,  at  no  distant 
perio<l,  contain  a  large  population,  'I'hc  first  ridgfc  of 
hills  met  with,  on  passinjjf  inland  from  the  sea,  is  the 
Coast  Range,  a  continuation  of  the  central  chain  of 
Lower  California;  further  inland,  is  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
or  Snowy  Range,  which  forms  the  eastern  boundary  of 
the  finer  portioii  of  the  territory,  and  separates  the  ma- 
ritime district  from  the  interior  desert, 

Tfie  Sierra  Nevada  and  the  C/oast  Range  run  nearlj- 
in  the  direction  of  the  sea-sliore;  the  first  at  a  distance 
from  the  Pacific,  varying  from  100  to  200  miles,  and 
the  other  at  from  40  to  60  miles,  Tlie  valley  interposed 
between  them  is  the  finest  part  of  California  ;  it  is  not 
less  than  500  miles  in  length,  and  from  60  to  140  wide. 
The  Sierra  Nevada,  or  Snowy  Range  of  California,  is 
reported  by  Captain  Fremont  to  be  of  greater  height 
than  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  is  all  the  time  covered 
with  snow.  The  pass  by  which  that  intrepid  officer 
crossed  the  Sierra  was  9338  fcet  above  the  sea,  and  the 
mountains  on  either  hand  rose  several  thousand  feet 
higher.  The  Coast  Range  is  of  less  elevation  than  the 
Sierra  Nevada;  some  of  its  peaks  are,  however,  covered 
with  snow.  Mount  San  Benardin  and  Mount  Shaste 
are  the  highest. 

The  Sierra  Nevada  has  been  hitherto  very  imperfectly 


50 


rPPER    OR   NKW    CALirORMA. 


'  i 


I' 


represented  on  maps.  For  its  true  position  the  world  Is 
indebted  to  Captain  Fremont,  who  travelled  along  itn 
base  for  1000  miles,  during  the  winter  of  1843-44,  first 
for  half  that  distance  on  the  eastern,  and  the  remainder 
on  the  western  side.  The  Indians  on  the  former  side 
of  the  Sierra  are  adepts  in  using  snow-shoes,  on  which 
they  pursue  their  excursions  along  the  snowy  and  frozen 
sides  of  the  mountains.  The  Sierra  Nevada  is  remark- 
able for  a  new  species  of  pine,  which  has  been  called 
the  nut-pine ;  it  produces  an  oily  and  pleasant-tasted 
nut,  which  forms  an  important  part  of  the  winter  storo 
of  the  almost  famished  inhabitants  of  these  regions. 
The  Big-Horn,  or  mountain  sheep,  and  the  Grizzly  Bear, 
both  inhabit  the  Sierra,  and  the  latter  is  probably  the 


Grizzly  Bear. 

northernmost  range  of  that  animal.  In  its  descent  to 
the  level  country,  the  grizzly  bear  is  sometimes  met  with 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  towns  on  the  coast,  terrifying  the 
inhabitants,  and  occasionally  carrying  off  a  sheep,  a 
calf,  or  an  ox. 

The  chief  mountains  of  Upper  California,  on  the 
eastern  frontier,  are  the  Sierra  Anahuac,  the  Sierra  los 
Mimbres,  and  the  Sierra  Madre.  These  all  form  a 
continuous  chain,  and  are  a  part  of  the  great  Rocky 
Mountain  range.  They  separate  the  waters  of  the  Colo- 
rado from  those  of  the  Rio  Grande  del  Norte.     The 


\ 


ti 


UPPER    OR    NliW    CALIFORNIA. 


51 


I  " 


I 


Bear  River  and  Wahsatch  Mountains  were  recently  ex- 
plored by  Captain  Fremont;  they  arc  both  of  considera- 
ble elevation,  and  form  the  eastern  rim  of  the  Great  In- 
terior Basin. 

The  chief  lake  of  Upper  California  is  the  Great  Salt 
Lake,  uhich  lies  in  the  northern  extremity  of  the  terri- 
tory, and  about  70  miles  south  of  Lewis  River.  It  is 
of  an  irregular  figure,  not  less  than  90  miles  long,  and 
from  30  to  40  wide ;  the  surface  is  4000  feet  above  tiiat 
of  the  ocean;  it  has  no  visible  outlet,  and  its  waters  arc 
much  Salter  than  those  of  the  sea.  This  lake  was  ex- 
plored by  Captain  Fremont,  in  the  year  1843,  when  its 
figure  and  position  were  determined  with  much  more 
accuracy  than  before.  It  is  doubtless  the  Lake  Timpa- 
nogos  of  the  Spanish  maps,  and  has  been  also  known  as 
Lake  Bonneville,  and  Lake  Youta.  The  country  in  the 
vicinity  of  its  eastern  border  is  reported  as  being,  in 
many  parts,  favourable  for  settlement,  and  the  lake  will 
doubtless  be,  at  some  future  period,  of  vast  importance, 
on  account  of  the  boundless  quantity  of  salt  that  may 
be  made  from  it.  Utah,  a  much  smaller,  but  fresh-water 
lake,  flows  into  tlie  Great  Salt  Lake  from  the  south. 
Mountain,  Pyramid,  and  Mud  Lakes,  were  recently  dis- 
covered by  Captain  Fremont,  and  lie  among  the  lofty 
ridges  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  :  they  contain  a  species  of 
large  and  fine  flavoured  salmon-trout.  From  the  surface 
of  Pyramid  Lake  a  singular  shaped  rock,  nearly  as 
regular  in  form  as  the  famed  pyramids  of  Egypt,  rises 
to  the  height  of  600  feet :  it  is  visible  many  miles  dis- 
tant, and  from  it  tiie  lake  received  its  name.  The  two 
Tule,  or  Bulrush  Lakes,  lie  in  the  valley  between  the 
Sierra  Nevada  and  the  Coast  Range  Mountains,  and  arc 
formed  by  the  waters  which  flow  in  them.  The  lower 
and  largest  lake  is  probably  about  80  miles  in  length, 
and  from  12  to  15  in  width.  The  upper  lake  is  much 
smaller.  During  the  spring  months,  when  these  lakes 
are  filled  to  overflowing,  their  waters  find  a  passage  into 
the  River  San  Joaquin,  but  at  other  times  the  connection 
ceases. 


52 


UPrER    OR    NEW    CALIFORNIA. 


Nearly  the  whole  of  the  central  part  of  tliis  region, 
extending  from  400  to  500  miles  from  north  to  south, 
and  about  the  same  from  east  to  west,  is  unexplored.  It 
has  be'^n  eallcd  by  Captain  Fremont,  the  "Great  Inte- 
rior Basin  of  California."  On  tlie  west  it  is  enclosed 
by  the  Sierra  Nevada,  and  on  tlie  cast  by  the  Bear  River 
and  Wahsatch  Mountains.  It  is  generally  represented 
as  a  sandy  desert,  but  it  is  known  to  contain,  in  sonic 
quarters,  various  rivers  and  lakes,  none  of  whose  waters 
reach  the  ocean.  The  mountains  by  which  the  whole  is 
surrounded  prevent  their  egress,  and  the  surplus  is  no 
doubt  absorbed  by  evaporation,  or  lost  in  the  sands  of 
the  more  arid  districts.  The  population  consists  cf  a 
few  wandering  savages,  who  live  chiefly  on  insects  and 
seeds,  and  on  the  roots  which  they  dig  out  of  the  earth; 
hence  their  name  of  *'  Diggers."  The  rabbit  is  the 
largest  animal  known  here  ;  it  supplies  a  little  flesh, 
and  its  skin  furnishes  the  scanty  raiment  of  the  almost 
naked  inhabitants.  The  wild  sage  is  the  only  wood  ;  it 
grows  of  large  size,  being  often  a  foot  in  diameter,  and 
ii*om  six  to  eight  feet  high.  It  serves  for  fuel,  for  shelter 
to  tlic  rabbits,  and  for  some  sort  of  covering  for  the  feet 
and  legs  of  the  miserable  inhabitants  in  cold  weather. 
P  is  also  the  material  of  which  they  construct  their 
diminutive  wigwams.* 

The  tract  along  the  southern  edge  of  this  desert  re- 
gion travelled  by  the  late  exploring  party,  was  found 
frequently  marked  by  tlie  skeletons  of  horses  that  had 
perished  for  want  of  water ;  and  for  several  hundred 
miles  the  surface  of  the  country  seeftied  more  like  an 
Arabian  desert  than  a  portion  of  North  America. 

Wild  animals  are,  in  some  parts  of  Upper  California, 

*  By  information  received  from  Captain  Fremont,  since  he 
entered  California  on  his  second  tour  of  exploration,  1845-46,  ir 
appears  that  he  has  crossed  the  Great  Interior  Basin,  or  Desert, 
and  found  it  to  be  much  less  sterile  and  unforbidding  in  charac- 
ter than  he  was  at  first  led  to  believe.  He  has  also  discovered  a 
practicable  direct  pass  through  the  mountain  to  California,  that 
will  greatly  shorten  the  distance,  and  lessen  the  fatigues  of  tJ)e 
emigrants  to  that  country;  but  the  particulars  are  not  yet 
known. 


1^ 


CJPPER   OR    NEW    CALIFORMA. 


5-3 


I  i 


very  numerous.  The  buffalo,  panther,  or  Anjcriean 
tiger,  deer,  and  several  other  species  of  quadrupeds,  are 
common.  The  beaver  abound  in  many  of  the  streams, 
particularly  on  the  upper  tributaries  of  the  Colorado 
River;  but  they  are  much  sought  after  for  their  skins, 
and  are  less  numerous  than  formerly.  The  rabbit  is 
reported  as  the  only  animal  to  be  found  in  the  Great 
Basin. 


Wild  Hor&e. 

Coptain  Fremont  encountered,  in  his  late  journey 
through  the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin,  large  droves  of 
elk  and  wild  horses,  also  wolves 
and  antelopes.  He  ascertain- 
ed, also,  that  the  Big  Horn,  or 
Mountain  Sheep,  and  the  Griz- 
zly Bear,  are  met  with  in  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  as  well  as 
among  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  birds  of  California  are 
generally  similar  to  those  of 
the  United  States.  One  of  the 
most  remarkable  of  its  land 
birds,  is  the  great  Californian 
Vulture.  It  builds  its  nest  in 
the  loftiest  pine-trees  among 
the  mountains.  It  is  from  4 
to  4i  feet  long,  and  its  quills  are  so  lai-cre  as  to  be  used 
5* 


Californian  Vulture. 


54 


UPPER    OR   NEW    CALIFORNIA. 


e 

H 

a 
t 

P 

V 

e 


by  the  hunters  as  tubes  for  tobacco-pipes.  The  food  of 
this  species  is  carrion,  or  dead  fish,  for  in  no  instance 
will  they  attack  any  hving  animal,  unless  it  be  wounded 
or  unable  to  walk.  In  searching  for  prey,  they  soar  to 
a  great  height,  and  on  discovering  a  wounded  deer,  or 
other  animal,  they  follow  its  track  until  it  sinks.  Al- 
though only  one  bird  may  be  first  in  possession,  it  is 
soon  surrounded  by  great  numbers,  who  all  fall  upon  the 
carcass,  and  devour  it  to  a  skeleton  within  an  hour, 
even  though  it  be  a  horse  or  a  stag. 

The  wheat  of  California  is  of  excellent  quality ;  and,  ex- 
cept in  years  when  drought  prevails,  the  product  is  very 
abundant.  Indian  corn  yields  well,  also  potatoes,  beans, 
peas,  &c.  The  soil  is  well  adapted  for  grapes  ;  from 
3000  to  4000  gallons  of  wine  are  made,  and  about  the 
same  amount  of  brandy ;  this,  however,  is  quite  insuffi- 
cient for  the  supply  of  the  country,  and  large  amounts 
of  foreign  wines  and  liquors  are  imported. 

The  wealth  of  this  part  of  the  continent  consists  of 
live  stock.  Besides  large  herds  of  cattle;  sheep,  horses, 
mules,  goats,  and  swine  abound.  The  mutton  is  of  fine 
flavour,  but  the  wool  is  inferior,  as  no  attention 
is  paid  to  that  kind  of  stock.  The  chief  articles  of 
export  are  hides  aiic^  tailinv :  about  150,000  of  the  former, 
and  200,000  arrobas  of  the  latter  are  exported  annually. 
About  i^OOO  beaver,  3000  elk  and  deer,  and  400  or  500 
sea-otter  skins,  the  latter  worth  30  dollars  a-piece,  are 
also  exported  ;  besides  which,  about  12,000  bushels  of 
wheat  are  shipped  annually  to  the  Russian  settlements 
on  the  Northwest  Coast. 

At  the  missions,  coarse  blankets  and  wearing  apparel 
for  the  Indians  are  manufactured,  besides  a  small 
amount  of  soap  and  leather.  There  are  in  the  country 
only  two  or  three  water-mills  for  grinding  wheat,  which 
Lre  owned  by  Americans. 

The  inhabitants  of  California  consist  of  whites,  half- 
breeds,  and  Indians,  and  are  of  very  limited  amount  for 
the  extent  of  country  they  occupy.  Estimates  of  their 
number  are  usually  made  in  reference  to  those  occupy. 


■i' 


VrPEU    oil    xNEW    CALU'ORNIA. 


55 


od  of 
tance 
inded 
3ar  to 
er,  or 
Al. 
,  it  is 
3n  the 
hour, 

id,  ex- 

s  very 
beans, 
;  from 
)ut  the 
insuffi- 
nounts 

ists  of 
lorses, 
of  fine 
tention 
cles  of 
former, 
nually. 
or  5U0 
jce,  arc 
hels  of 
iements 

apparel 
L  small 
country 
which 

es,  half- 
ount  for 
of  their 
occupy- 


ing the  settlements  along  the  coast,  and  the  country 
lying  between  the  Pacific  and  the  Sierra  Nevada.  The 
remainder  of  tlie  territory  is  so  vaguely  known  that  no 
estimate,  even  of  the  probable  number,  could  be  relied 
on.  Within  the  limits  above  specified,  the  Aborigines 
are  estimated  at  12,000,  one  half  being  converted  In- 
dians ;  the  remainder  reside  mostly  on  the  Sacramento 
River,  and  on  the  coast.  The  whites  amount  to  about 
8000,  and  the  half-breeds  to  2000,  making  the  wliole 
population  about  22,000  souls. 

The  white  population  consists  of  Californians  and 
Americans ;  the  former  are  similar  to  the  inhabitants 
of  the  other  parts  of  Mexico,  who  are  of  Spanish  origin. 
They  are  much  addictea  to  gambling;  are  proud  and 
indolent,  and  look  upon  all  manual  labour  as  degrading. 
Games  of  cards  and  dice  are  equally  in  favour  with 
men  and  women.  Cock-figl.ting,  bull  and  bear-baiting, 
and  dancing,  are  the  chief  amusements.  The  women 
.seldom  receive  any  kind  of  education,  and  are  conse- 
quently very  ignorant,  and  are  the  slaves  of  their  hus- 
bands. They  dress  expensively  where  they  have  the 
means ;  are  Ibnd  of  gaudy  colours,  and  wear  a  profu- 
sion of  jewelry.  Tiie  females  of  the  better  class  are 
often  very  handsome;  engaging  at!  amiable  in  their 
manners,  and  have,  in  some  instanccb,  become  ihe  wives 
of  Americans  and  other  foreigners. 

The  people  of  California  iiave  liorses  in  abandance, 
and  are  all  fearless  and  expert  riders ;  and  in  this 
respect  the  women  arc  almost  equal  with  the  men. 
The  latter  use  tlie  lasso  with  great  skill ;  and  with  it 
they  catch  wild  cattle  and  horses  very  dexterously. 

The  number  of  American  citizens  in  Upper  Californid 
is  already  considerable,  and  is  daily  increasing,  parties 
larly  in  the  region  lying  north  of  the  Bay  of  San  Fruii- 
cisco,  formerly  occupied  to  some  extent  by  the  Russians. 
Some  are  engaged  in  farming,  some  in  trade,  others  are 
building  ships,  iiouscs,  mills,  <fec.  Their  superior  enter- 
prise and  industry  iiavc  already  placed  nearly  all  of 
them  in   comfortable   circumstances,  and    should  they 


56 


VVVEll    OR    NEW    CALIICIIMA. 


}■ 


continue  to  emigrate  to  any  extent,  will,  in  a  short  time, 
materially  improve  the  eondition  of  the  country.  The 
Americans  seem  to  be  on  very  i,^ood  terms  witli  the 
Culifornians,  and  have  iiithcrto  given  themselves  but 
liUb  concern  about  the  Mexican  government ;  of  tiic 
unfriendly  feeling  of  which  towards  them,  tliey  have 
been  often  reminded  by  tlie  decrees  j>assed  from  time  to 
time  for  their  expulsion.  These  decrees  the  diftcrent 
governors  of  the  territory  have  contented  themselves 
with  merely  proclaiming,  us  it  would  be  sheer  folly  to 
attempt  enforcing  tliem,  whilst  the  Californians  are 
obliged  to  depend  ahnost  wholly  on  tlte  Americans  to 
suppress  the  incursions  of  the  predatory  Indians. 

The  aborigines  of  Upper  California  are  for  the  most 
part  indolent  and  pusillanimous,  and  destitute  of  tlic 
boldness  and  energy  displayed  by  many  of  tiieir  race  in 
other  quarters.  Excepting  those  that  have  been  con- 
verted in  the  missions,  the  women  go  nearly  and  tiie 
men  entirely  naked.  Tliey  are  filtliy  in  their  habits 
live  in  small  miserable  wigwams  built  of  rushes,  of 
which  ^'iey  also  construct  their  rafts,  and  what  clothing 
they  use.  In  tJieir  primitive  state  they  have  no  agri- 
culture, but  subsist  on  wild  herbs,  seeds,  vvhicli  the 
women  collect  and  grind  into  a  meal,  also  on  fish,  the 
shell-fish  on  the  shores,  tlie  products  of  tlie  chase,  and 
whales*  flesh  and  blubber,  wlienever  tiiat  animal  is  cast 
on  the  coast,  an  event  which  occasions  great  rejoicings. 

The  Pah  Utah  Indians,  wlio  inliabil  the  interior  along 
the  south  edge  of  tlic  Great  Desert,  live  mostly  by  plun- 
der and  robbery ;  their  arn^s  arc  long  bows  and  arrows ; 
the  latter  arc  pointed  witli  a  very  iiard  stone,  a  species 
of  opal,  and  are  almost  as  eflective  as  a  rifle  or  musket- 
ball.  They  often  make  incursions  into  tlie  coast-settle- 
ments and  commit  grievous  depredations;  tlie  iiorses 
and  mules  which  they  capture  are  driven  to  their  retreats 
in  the  mountains,  and  are  immediately  slaugl)tercd  for 
food.  In  traversing  tlieir  country.  Captain  1  lemont  and 
his  followers  were  obliged  to  use  the  utmost  vigilance  to 
prevent  a  surprise,  and  one  of  his  best  men  was  killed 


UPPER    OR    NEW    CALIFORNIA. 


57 


I 


by  tlicin.  These  Indians  constantly  dogged  the  party, 
watching  for  an  opportunity  to  make  an  attack,  and  a 
stray  horse  or  mule  was  taken  off  in  a  moment. 

Tlic  Utah  Indians  are  found  farther  east,  partly  in 
Cahfornia,  and  partly  in  New  Mexico ;  they  have  fre- 
quent intercourse  with  the  people  of  the  latter  country, 
and  are  less  savage  in  tlieir  habits.  They  have  horses  in 
abundance,  are  skilful  riders,  and  have  often  good  rifles. 
These  Indians  are  robbers  of  a  higher  order  than  those 
of  the  desert.  They  conduct  their  depredations  witii 
form,  and  under  the  colour  of  trade,  and  as  a  toll  for 
])assing  through  their  country.  Instead  of  attacking 
and  killing,  they  affect  to  purchase,  taking  the  horses, 
&,c.,  they  like,  and  giving  something  nominal  in  return. 

In  the  southern  part  of  the  territory,  and  on  both 
sides  of  the  Colorado  River,  there  are  various  tribes,  the 
iVIohahves,  Apaches,  Moquis,  or  Monquis,  Jumas,  &c., 
of  which  we  know  little  except  the  names.  Captain 
Fremont  met  with  a  few  individuals  of  the  Mohahve  or 
Amachuba  tribe ;  they  were  armed  with  bows  of  unu- 
sual length,  and  had  large  gourds,  strengthened  with 
meshes  of  cord,  in  which  they  carried  water.  He 
learned  that  the  tribe  raise  melons  of  various  kinds,  and 
that  individuals  sometimes  cross  the  intervening  desert 
to  trade  with  the  Sierra  Indians,  bringing  blankets  and 
other  articles  that  are  made  by  the  Moquis  and  some  of 
the  neighbouring  tribes. 

Tlie  towns  of  Upper  California  are  as  yet  mere  villages. 
Monterey,  the  capital,  has  about  1000  inhabitants,  but 
has  more  trade  than  would  be  inferred  from  its  popula- 
tion. In  the  year  1845,  58  vessels  of  the  burthen  of 
14,670  tons,  and  885  men,  entered  the  port.  Of  theso 
'-27  were  Americans,  18  Mexicans,  and  6  English;  the 
remainder  comprised  Germans,  French,  and  Hawaii- 
ans,  or  Sandwich  Islanders.  The  duties  collected  at 
Monterey,  for  the  last  7  years,  averaged  about  $3G,000 
per  annum. 

San  Diego  and  Pueblo  de  los  Angelos,  the  two  largest 
towns,  have  each  a  population  of  from  1200  to  1500  in- 


i 


\tn 


58 


UPPER   OR    NEW    CALIFORNIA. 


Iiabilants.  The  first  is  noted  for  the  mildness  of  its 
climate,  and  the  other  for  its  vineyards ;  the  grapes 
grown  here  are  of  the  finest  quality,  and  the  chief  part 
of  the  wine  and  brandy  manufactured  in  California  is 
made  here.  Santa  Barbara  and  San  Francisco  are  the 
next  important.  The  latter  is  on  the  bay  of  the  same 
name,  having  the  finest  harbour,  probably,  on  the  western 
coast  of  America  ;  it  aflTords  perfect  security  to  ships  of 
any  burthen,  with  plentiful  supplies  of  fresh  beef, 
vegetables,  wood,  water,  &c.  It  is  much  visited  by 
American  whalers,  and  other  vessels.  The  river  which 
flows  into  this  bay  waters  the  finest  portion  of  Upper 
California,  and  it  is  to  this  quarter  that  the  attention  of 
American  emigrants  is  chiefiy  directed. 

Further  north  is  Bodego  Bay,  where  the  Russians,  in 
1812,  founded  an  establishment  of  the  same  name. 
Still  further  to  the  northward  was  another,  called  Ross, 
or  Slavinka  Ross ;  at  both  these  places  there  were  small 
forts,  with  magazines,  stores,  &c.  There  were,  also, 
farms  in  the  vicinity,  on  which  fine  wheat  was  raised, 
as  well  as  peas,  butter,  cheese,  and  other  products  that 
the  Russians  sent  to  supply  their  forts  on  the  north-west 
coast.  In  the  year  1841,  the  Russians  sold  all  their 
property  in  Upper  California  to  an  American  company, 
and  left  the  country. 

Nucva  or  New  Helvetia  is  the  nucleus  of  a  recent  Ame- 
rican settlement  formed  in  1838-39  by  Captain  Sutter,  a 
citizen  of  Missouri,  who  obtained  a  grant  of  land  from  the 
Mexican  government.  It  is  about  50  miles  above  San 
Francisco  Bay,  near  the  junction  of  the  Sacramento 
with  the  Rio  de  los  Americanos,  and  consists  chiefly  of  a 
fort  built  of  adobes  or  sun-dried  bricks,  mounting  12 
pieces  of  cannon  ;  in  the  interior  are  the  dwellings  and 
work-shops.  About  30  white  men  and  40  Indians  are 
employed  by  Captain  Sutter,  and  are  mostly  engaged  in 
agriculture.  Large  quantities  of  excellent  wheat  are 
raised,  much  of  which  is  shipped  to  the  North-VVest 
settlements,  in  vessels  belonging  to  the  proprietor.  New 
Helvetia  is  at  a  considerable  distance  from  any  other 


'i 


UPPER   OR   NEW   CALIFORNIA. 


59 


■ 

:. 

;  i 


ri 


settlement,  and  much  energy  and  industry  have  been 
manifested  in  its  establishment.  Several  American 
families  reside  in  the  vicinity. 

The  coasts  of  Upper  California  were  explored  as 
early  as  1542,  by  Cabrillo,  a  Spanisli  navigator,  who 
reached  ihe  latitude  of  38°  ;  but  his  pilot,  Ferrolo,  who 
succeeded  to  the  command  of  tlie  expedition,  on  the 
death  of  the  former,  sailed  several  degrees  farther  north. 
In  1578,  Sir  Francis  Drake  entered  the  bay  often  called 
by  his  name,  but  now  generally  known  as  the  Bay  of 
San  Francisco ;  he  took  possession  of  the  country  in 
the  name  of  his  sovereign,  Queen  Elizabeth,  called 
it  New  Albion,  and  erected  a  pillar  in  commemoration 
of  the  event.  This  name,  although  often  found  on 
English  maps  and  charts,  is  now  generally  exploded. 
On  leaving  San  Francisco  Bay,  the  English  navigator 
sailed  further  northward,  but  the  precise  latitude  reached 
by  him  is  a  matter  of  dispute.  For  almost  200  years 
after  the  time  of  Drake,  California  appears  to  have  been 
seldom  visited  by  navigators,  and  but  little  is  recorded 
of  it. 

The  first  settlement  of  the  Upper  Province  took  place 
in  1769,  by  the  establishment  of  the  missions  of  San 
Diego  and  Monterey.  From  that  time  until  1776,  nine- 
teen missions  had  been  established.  One  nwre  was 
founded  in  1817,  and  another  in  1823,  making  21  in  all. 
These  establishments  were  partly  military  and  partly 
religious,  intended  for  the  conversion  of  the  natives  un- 
der the  direction  of  the  missionaries,  as  well  as  for  the 
occupation  of  the  country. 

The  missions  Consisted  each  ofa  cluster  of  small  houses, 
usually  built  in  a  square,  one  of  which  was  a  church, 
with  a  territory  of  about  15  square  miles.  They  were 
free  from  government  taxes,  and  each  subordinate 
to  a  Franciscan  friar,  termed  a  prefect.  The  Indians 
brought  up  at  the  missions  were  generally  obtained 
young  from  their  parents  by  persuasion  or  by  purchase, 
or  in  some  cases  by  force,  and  were  never  suffered  to 
Uturn  to  their  savage  friends  if  it  could  be  prevented. 


60 


UPPER   OR   NEW    CALIFORNIA. 


Tlicy  were  all  at  first  treated  as  cliildrcn,  tlie  nature  and 
houra  of  their  labours,  their  studies,  their  meals  and 
their  recreations  being  prescribed  by  their  superinten- 
dents; and  they  were  punished  when  negligent  or  re- 
fractory, though  not  with  severity.  After  remaining  ten 
years  in  this  state  of  pupilage  they  might  obtain  their 
liberty  and  have  ground  allotted  to  them,  but  compara- 
tively few  availed  themselves  of  the  permission,  and 
those  who  did  so  for  the  most  part  sunk  into  sloth  and 
misery,  or  returned  to  the  wilds  and  resumed  the  savage 
life.  In  the  latter  cases  the  Spaniards  employed  every 
means  in  their  power  to  retake  the  fugitives,  who  were 
indeed  often  sent  back  by  the  barbarians  as  unworthy 
of  enjoying  the  privileges  of  freemen. 

In  the  missions  the  males  were  employed  in  tilling 
the  ground  or  in  the  warehouses  and  workshops;  the 
females  were  engaged  in  spinning,  grinding  corn,  and 
other  domestic  labours.  AH  were  fed  and  clothed  by 
the  friars,  to  whom  they  were  in  fact  slaves.  In  1831, 
their  number  was  about  18,000.  Since  Mexico  became 
independent  of  Spain,  the  missions  have  gradually  de- 
clined, and  may  now  be  considered  extinct.  The  new 
government  neglected  paying  the  remittances  accorded 
by  the  Spaniards,  and  the  constitution  of  1824  declared 
all  the  adult  civilized  Indians  freed  from  submission  to 
the  former  pastors,  and  to  be  citizens  of  the  Republic.  The 
authority  of  the  friars  thus  dwindled  away,  most  of  them 
left  the  country,  the  farms  were  abandoned,  and  the  In- 
dians for  the  most  part  relapsed  into  barbarism  or  sunk 
into  idle  and  vicious  habits. 

In  November,  1836,  the  people  of  Monterey  and  its 
vicinity  rose,  attacked  and  subdued  the  garrison,  ex- 
pelled the  Mexican  functionaries  and  troops,  declared 
California  independent,  and  established  a  congress  of 
deputies  for  its  future  government.  But  after  a  time 
the  inhabitants  were  induced  to  return  under  Mexican 
authority.  In  the  month  of  October,  1842,  Monterey  was 
captured  by  an  American  squadron  under  th  command 
of  Commodore  Jones,  in  the  belief  tliat  war  had  been 


UPl'KR  OR   NEW   CAUFORXIA. 


61 


declared  by  Mexico  against  the  United  States.  But  tliu 
Commodore,  finding  that  his  information  had  been  erro- 
neous, restored  the  town  after  liolding  it  for  two  or  three 
days.  Since  the  date  of  the  last  mentioned  event,  another 
revolution  has  occurred. 

In  January,  1845,  independence  was  again  declared 
in  Upper  California ;  and  according  to  report,  Captain 
A.  J.  Sutter,  a  citizen  lately  of  St.  Louis,  Missouri,  was 
placed  at  the  head  of  the  civil  and  military  departmenta 
of  the  northern  frontier.  This  country  will  no  doubt 
remain  hereafter  separate  from  Mexico,  the  inhabitants 
being  all  heartily  tired  of  the  government,  and  the  im- 
becility of  its  officers.  Mexico  has  at  present  too  much 
to  do  at  home  to  think  of  attempting  the  re-establisJi- 
ment  of  her  authority  over  so  distant  a  province,  one  too 
that  has  become  strong  enough  to  resist  successfully 
any  forces  which  she  can  bring  against  it. 

The  emigrant  route  from  Missouri  to  California  is 
identical  with  that  to  Oregon  as  far  as  Fort  Hall,  1350 
miles  from  Independence.  On  leaving  the  former,  the 
Californian  track  extends  generally  in  a  south-west 
direction  for  about  750  miles  to  the  American  settle- 
ments on  the  Rio  Sacramento.  The  scarcity  of  good 
water  and  grass,  with  the  hardships  experienced  in 
crossing  the  Sierra  Nevada,  a  range  of  mountains  said 
to  be  2000  feet  higher  than  the  Rocky  Mountains,  ren- 
ders this  part  of  the  journey  much  more  perilous  and 
fatiguing  than  the  other.  At  the  distance  of  100  miles 
after  leaving  the  Fort,  the  travellers  enter  the  "  Great 
interior  basin  of  California,"  as  it  is  called  by  Captain 
Fremont,  a  region  which  has  as  yet  been  only  imper- 
fectly explored,  but  which  recent  observations  would  in- 
dicate as  being  less  sterile  than  formerly  thought ;  many 
of  the  lakes  and  ponds  are  saturated  with  salts  of  dif- 
ferent kinds,  and  when  dried  up,  which  happens  fre- 
quently  to  those  of  smaller  size  during  the  heats  of 
summer,  the  salt  may  be  seen  at  the  bottom  as  white  as 
snow. 

About  250  miles  of  the  journey  is  along  the  banks 
G 


62 


UPPER   OR   NEW    CALIFORNIA, 


of  Mary's  River,  a  stream  reported  to  flow  in  a  south- 
western direction,  and  to  terminate  in  a  sink-hole  or 
lake  40  or  50  miles  from  the  eastern  base  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  and  about  170  or  180  miles  from  the  Sacra- 
mento settlements.  The  inhabitants  of  this  part  of  the 
interior,  like  those  seen  by  Captain  Fremont  farther  to 
the  south,  arc  naked  savages,  hostile  to,  and  attacking 
all  strangers  whenever  opportunity  occurs.  They  are 
armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  which  they  use  effec- 
tively. 

Between  the  months  of  May  and  October  the  Sierra 
Nevada  may  be  crossed  with  comparative  ease ;  but 
after  the  last  named  period  of  the  year,  the  passes  are 
obstructed  by  deep  snow.  But  little  that  will  serve  for 
food  can  be  obtained,  and  a  journey  through  them  is 
rendered  very  hazardous.  In  crossing  these  mountains 
in  February,  1844,  Captain  Fremont  and  his  party  wero 
reduced  to  such  straits  that  they  killed  several  of  their 
horses  and  mules  as  well  as  a  dog  for  food.  When  once 
however  on  the  western  side  of  the  Sierra,  the  fineness 
of  the  climate,  the  fertility  of  the  soil,  and  the  kind  hospi- 
tality of  the  settlers,  will  soon  make  the  traveller  forget 
the  dangers  of  the  journey. 


THE    END. 


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